Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have tried a custom 5 puck, Nismo Spec II twin, and HKS Pro triple.

In a GTR, forget the single plates if you are thinking of any modifications at all.

Nismo Spec II is good for upto 600hp at the engine, has a sprung centre and doesn't rattle. It's very bitey and will take a little getting used to.

HKS Pro triple is rated upto 1000hp and has a solid centre. When you engage the clutch it rattles which can be anoying for some. Drivability is very similar to the Nismo but it can shudder at times at take off.

I have tried a custom 5 puck, Nismo Spec II twin, and HKS Pro triple.

In a GTR, forget the single plates if you are thinking of any modifications at all.

Nismo Spec II is good for upto 600hp at the engine, has a sprung centre and doesn't rattle. It's very bitey and will take a little getting used to.

HKS Pro triple is rated upto 1000hp and has a solid centre. When you engage the clutch it rattles which can be anoying for some. Drivability is very similar to the Nismo but it can shudder at times at take off.

A single plate heavy duty can handle up to 300kw on a GTR.

With street driven clutches I think one of the biggest mistakes is in over doing the pressure plate.

My last GTST I opted for a sprung center 9 puck ceramic/metal clutch disc and a factory 'used' pressure plate. The factory pressure plate exerts enough force on the clutch disc so that it will bite and not let go. The ceramic has excellent high temp operation and grab but, like all clutch discs it is very important to bed it in properly. Not doing this will take some chunks out of it. Keeping the clutch down to the single disc has the added bonus of keeping the weight down. Also the 9 puck has a greater clamping area over 3 or 4 puck units and therefore requires less force from the pressure plate to do it's job.

If you need a heavier clamping pressure plate then see if you can get hold of a centerforce style unit. As they rev they increase the clamping pressure, bite like a pitbull if you rev and dump them.

rev210,

I think you've got it the other way around mate, less surface area will have more clamping force for a given pressure plate rating. That's why the most agressive single plates go with 3 pucks only. They will be fairly unforgiving and will take a little getting used to.

Stiffness of your clutch pedal directly relates to the rating of your pressure plate, assuming pivot points hasn't been altered with. If you upgrade your pressure plate you will have a stiffer clutch pedal. For a single plate to hold on to some decent power in a GTR, you need a hell of a lot of pressure for it not to slip.

GTRs, if driven hard are savage on clutches. If you drive around in normal fashion, sure, a single plate will have no troubles holding on to 300kw at the engine. If you like to take advantage of the 4WD and dump your clutch frequently, it will absoulately cop a hammering. I still have my factory flywheel in the garage that was mated to my ceramic 5 puck a couple of years ago, it is absoulately rooted.

I have an excedy heavy duty single plate - it holds on fine with normal drive, i does slip sometimes if i dump it hard, but i've been told this is probaly because its on its way out...

Not sure what Ben from race pace says about clutchs.. he just did my tune etc...

Emre,

The 3 and 4 puck units are designed to be 'on' or 'off', the surface area they have to 'grip' the flywheel after they engage is smaller, it doesn't need to be large because they are not intended to slip at all reducing the heat load. However they do require a much larger pressure over the relatively smaller area to remain 'stuck' to the flywheel vs a fiction plate with more 'puck's' once actually engaged.

The factory cast flywheels cast iron contact surface is not as hard as the ceramic material used, especially if it was machined before the clutch was fitted (the outer skin on the casting is the strongest part). I try to use chrome molly flywheels with ceramic's for that reason. The chewed up parts on the flywheel are not due to clutch dumps by the way, thats where you have been riding the clutch in traffic and traffic lights more likely.

Interestingly the best way to keep your clutch alive is to 'drop it', this avoids the massive friction involved in 'riding the clutch'. I think when people get their learners permits they seem to have 'riding the clutch' as a built in coping mechanisim for hill starts when with a tiny bit more skill they could avoid a future of owning performance vehilces that need a new clutch every year thanks to that very bad habit. It is something that even the factory GTR handbook/pamphlet on 'How to drive your GTR' (co-written by richards ,skaife and gibson motorsport team) allude to. They suggest '..stepping off the clutch and to avoid riding the clutch but, rather use the tractable nature of the engine to get you quickly away '. Their advice works very well they just left the bit out about rev limiters. :D

Sydneykid, red210 etc.... What are your thoughts on the OS twin with anti rattle that Sydneykid has suggested bearing in mind that I don't care if it rattles as long as it lasts and puts up with the hiding I give it.

i.e. is the anti-rattle function ONLY to avoid the rattling sound or does it have a higher purpose?

Adrian

2rismo,

You know that I was running much more nitrous than you (about 170hp shot) and yet I drove around with a factory rated pressure plate and a very well made 9 puck clutch (Ross from Autoclutch in perth makes them). This combo continues to last for the cars new owner dispite it being about 3 years old now. The great thing about it is it feels as close to the factory clutch as you can get. Make sure you do the ogura flywheel too.

Oh, I almost forgot... GTRken put me onto Ross and he has used the same setup (with a slightly heavier pressure plate) on pretty much all his GTR's including the one's he and others have raced seriously. A couple of 300rwkw GTR's as well.

rev210,

I agree with all of what you've said, except the following :

The puck style clutches have about half the surface area of a full surface disc so the pressure is distributed over a smaller area for a given pressure plate rating. This will have more clamping power for the same pressure.

Pressure = Force / Surface area

Ceramic is used as the friction material bacause of its very high co-efficient of friction, also because of this they are not intended to be slipped at all as this will wear out the flywheel and the pressure plate at an alarming rate. To eliminate slip totally, pressure plate rating is increased.

My factory flywheel is rooted bacause it copped a fair few launches and started slipping, more it slips, more damage is being done. I should've used a even higher rated pressure plate.

You are totally correct in how to treat these clutches in everyday driving. You gotta literally do mini 2500 clutch drops at every take off, which can look quite ridicolous from outside.

Regarding the 300kw GTRs racing : Was it circuit racing or drag racing...?

Jim Berry from Race Clutches in Queensland is also very reputable in the business.

Nismo Spec II is good for upto 600hp at the engine, has a sprung centre and doesn't rattle. It's very bitey and will take a little getting used to.

I've got a Nismo Twin Spec 1 on my car and I couldn't be happier with the choice. Compared to twin plate OS giken I found it easier to drive (it has a sprung centre) but I think either are fine just a matter of getting used to them. I don't believe that any single will be sufficient for a GTR which has over 200kw @ wheels... I had spoken to numerous members on this forum and friends as well as workshops on this matter and also on the GTROC forums and many people have gone through the exercise of gettnig a "heavy duty" single for their GTR only having to have it replaced 6 months down the track.

After a few months the clutch loosens up as well and its not so on/off but as I said once used to it its fine. Good for street and I know a couple of 1/2 miles isn't giong to destroy it either. The clutch is noisy and rattles a fair bit but who cares.... its a GTR... its loud anyway. Another benefit of getting one of these kits is that you usually get a lightened flywheel with it.

a stock gtr puts out approx 160kw - 170kw at the wheels.

my mates' gtrs has approx 230kw at the wheels, with the standard clutch still working fine and i have been told by many workshop a single plate will do fine.... well i hope they are right cos i don't wanna have made the wrong choice:(

a stock gtr puts out approx 160kw - 170kw at the wheels.

I guess it all depends on which dyno as well. Mine made 150kw @ all 4 on a dyno dynamics and this was just with an exhaust so I'd actually guess that it should make less than that stock.

my mates' gtrs has approx 230kw at the wheels, with the standard clutch still working fine and i have been told by many workshop a single plate will do fine.... well i hope they are right cos i don't wanna have made the wrong choice

Look as I said it all depends on the driving style but there are LOTS of people who have gone through this exercise. Yes of course for a while the standard clutch will work fine for a while but if you do end up modifying anymore, or do a few launches or whatever I bet you that you'll be doing a clutch replacement a lot sooner than if you got a twin plate.

Also if you're nito doing 1/4 miles or wahtever I would take a twin over a single as most twins engage much faster and as I previously mentioned the other benefit is the lightened flywheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...