Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so everythings hooked up

I have

Spark'

Fuel

Air

compression 140-150 (cold comp test) across all 6

but the car wont start it cranks over and pops out the pod but doesnt run

I have brand new coil packs and spark plugs

20L of brand new 95 fuel with octane booster so 105ron

only thing I can think of is the advanced timing on the cas is out any ideas

engine is a rb25det neo in an r32 with lots of bolt ons

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374271-car-pops-but-wont-start/
Share on other sites

should be able to run without the CAS plugged in, should just show engine light, but your bolt on's might be the problem. have you checked everything is in 100% working order? when i did a conversion i found out that my injectors werent getting enough juice so was starving on fuel, still got bit of fuel, but not enough to run.

coilpacks get enough voltage??? or even putting out enough for a big enough spark?

Weird ive always been told you have to have the cas plugged in to start

my injectors are the stock neo injectors in a greedy plenum with a top feed fuel rail and then a tomei fpr the spark plugs are covered in fuel when I take them out so don't think thats the issue but could be wrong

I have brand new plugs gapped at 0.8mm with dsr coils and have pulled each one out and checked the spark it seems fine to me

maybe my injectors arent mounted properly I had issue when fitting them will look again

Unless the engine is seriously modified, it shouldn't need a 0.8 spark gap. Try opening the gap out a bit, maybe 1mm.

If the plugs are coming out "wet", then it is obvious fuel is getting into the cylinders. Make sure you dry them off before re-fitting them.

Try starting with a bit of throttle - let some air in to match the apparent additional fuel. Also, try starting while slowly adjusting the CAS (if you suspect the CAS might be mis-adjusted).

Have you checked the fuel pressure that the fpr is delivering?

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm having a similar problem on my series 1 rb25 in my r32. Everything is good such as fuel, spark and compression and timing. But all It does is back fire when I try and start it. A mechanic suggested the battery might not be good enough. I trickle charged it for 24 hours but still no go. The battery is about 5 years old though and has been relocated to the boot

Is say its coil pack related. Have u teasted spark?? Checked the fuel is flowing? Theres a trick with twisting the cas whilst ignition is on to hear ur inj firing. I had fuel lines wrong way round once, obviously didnt fire

yep i have spark on all 6, and good compression on all 6. got a new battery cos the one i had wasnt the best. It sounds a lot better and closer to starting now, but its just not getting there. all injectors are working and tested and i have my fuel lines around the right way.

starting to get frustrated :(

Spoke to my mechanic poping out the pod filter is timing out and poping out the exhaughst is tuning eg unburnt petrol hitting the hot exhaughst he had an mr2 with the problem and actually showed me it was actually intresting

well i got my car to start just now. I turned the CAS pin 90 degrees cranked and she fired right up. Now onto the next problem. when i start it it just revs up hard with out my pushing the pedal at all. I loosened the throttle cable so its loose but it still keeps doing it. Any ideas?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...