Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25 Gearbox with short shifter low k's $1300 firm

Bonnet hinges $50

Drivers side door complete white $125

Dashboard $75

Rear seats $50

Air flow meter pionk label type no plug $100

17" wheels $500 with nearly new tyres and locknuts included

Rear subframe $200

CV shafts $75 each

Torsen diff $150 with side flanges

Rear brake set up $350

Side rear quarter windows $100 each

Rear wiper motor $40

Front wiper motor $50

Power steering rack $150 including tie rod ends in good condition.

All seats belts $50 per corner

ABS unit $50

Roof lining no marks really clean $40

May also have other little parts but not much more left.

Located in Windsor NSW but can post small items at your cost.

All reasonable offers considered.

Tim

0404321205

Pics upon request, text me and ill text you a photo back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374537-left-over-r34-parts/
Share on other sites

I have been told it is a torsen out of an S15 and i have no problem with opening it up at all, text me and ill open it up and text you back with a pic.

Tim

Do you KNOW that it's a Torsen diff? If it is, I would like it. If you don't know for absolute sure, I would appreciate it if you would open it up and look/take photos of the centre.

cheers

Edited by Wilkins026

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...