Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I have an R32 GTR, recently replaced the battery due to starting problems. This fixed the issue for a while but am having dramas again:

1. I started my car after work to drive home, it started fine but none of the electrics (tail lights, interior lights etc) worked for the entire drive home.

2. A couple of weeks ago i charged the battery and it started fine.

3. This weekend It started with the help of a jump start, however I tried it again today and it started but as soon as the leads were disconnected the car died.

4. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst in the car but it wouldnt charge at all, the light came on to say the charger is on but the charge light wouldn't light up.

5. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst out of the car and the charger said the battery is fully charged.

6. I've checked all the fuses and they are all good.

I'm thinking the alternator is probably stuffed and maybe even the new battery aswell. Any help would be greatly appreciated and if anyone has any auto sparkies they could recommend SOR.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/
Share on other sites

3. This weekend It started with the help of a jump start, however I tried it again today and it started but as soon as the leads were disconnected the car died.

4. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst in the car but it wouldnt charge at all, the light came on to say the charger is on but the charge light wouldn't light up.

5. I put the battery charger on the battery whilst out of the car and the charger said the battery is fully charged.

alternator is fked

only one charger you have tried????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977030
Share on other sites

I've had a battery charger tell me my battery is full a number of times but after a few hours it starts reading right (Flat) Same battery worked fine after charging it on and off for about 4 days (Slow charger)

And as far as I remember disconnecting the battery to see if the car runs on the alternator only works on old cars where the alternator is in a circuit with the ignition system or whatever.

I would never hook up a charger to any car with an ECU :-|

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977121
Share on other sites

Hey,

I have an R32 GTR, recently replaced the battery due to starting problems. This fixed the issue for a while but am having dramas again:

1. I started my car after work to drive home, it started fine but none of the electrics (tail lights, interior lights etc) worked for the entire drive home.

6. I've checked all the fuses and they are all good.

I'm thinking the alternator is probably stuffed and maybe even the new battery aswell. Any help would be greatly appreciated and if anyone has any auto sparkies they could recommend SOR.

Cheers.

Point 1 usually indicates the accessory fuse under the dash, but you've said in point 6 they are all ok. Was it the fuses in the engine bay you checked or all of them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977192
Share on other sites

Yeh mate I've only tried one charger, the charger has worked fine in the past, and worked ok on the missus' car. I've checked both engine bay and under dash fuses. All are good!

I'm thinking its the alternator, will take to an auto sparky on thursday. Anyone got any recommendations of an auto sparky or someone that will replace the alternator?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977289
Share on other sites

Sounds like the alternator to me. The battery is probably dead, but the charger is reading false. I've had that happen before. Take the battery out of the car and put the charger on it over night. See what happens then. To test if the battery is dead, turn on all the lights and hold the horn down. If the horn fades to quietness, the battery is dead, if the horn keeps going, there is obviously charged. If the battery has no charge, blame the alternator :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977471
Share on other sites

with all the lights and the horn going that will just drain the battery, a good battery shop should test the battery for you, if i were at my shop i would, although it is in kalgoorlie.

they'll have a battery tester that can test the cca (the guts) of the battery although your battery would need to have a full charge,

it's best to charge it on an automatic charger and leave the battery to float before you test it otherwise you'll get a false reading.

also depending on the size of the battery, the size of the charger and how discharged the battery is it will take more than a night.

i reckon it's the alternator

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5977932
Share on other sites

if the car dies after the jumper pack is disconnected its gonna be a bit hard to drive it somewhere lol.

option 1: ring anytime-towing for $100 and get it towed to a workshop.

option 2: check the charge rate while its running off the jumper pack, this should point u towards either alternator or battery

option 3: buy a new battery. Dont buy the cheapest battery from supershit either, just a normal heavy duty with caps that you can top up with water. Dont get a maintenance free battery as if you do have charging issues it wont do the battery any favours being constantly flat and recharged. If its not the battery at least you'll have a new one which'll make diagnosing easier.

btw your charger sounds fked, for anyone wanting to buy a battery charger i recommend a CTEK charger i got the 8amp one and it does everything and will fully charge a massive battery in under a day, can also leave it on charge for months without doing any harm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374716-gtr-wont-start/#findComment-5979883
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...