Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've got a r33 series 1 gts-4

And I'm looking to put a turbo motor i'n it, from what I've been told I'll need a stagea motor.

I Just wanted to know if I'll have to change my loom?

And if i buy a motor, loom and computer package from a stag

It would mean the computer would be suited for an auto?

Meaning i would need a manual computer from an r33?

I also was told the sump would be different, I'm Just trying to figure out what i need to do, any help is appreciated!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374904-gts-4-motor-conversion/
Share on other sites

RB25(4WD) stagea motor. Its just a turbo gts-4 engine so it will fit no problem

and also RB26 will fit in no problem but with more parts needing to be changed ... obviously

It will work fine with the loom you have now but not very tidy, they are different looms. You will spend more money keeping your old loom because you will need a boost controller or you will be stuck at about 6 psi. But if your looking for over 200kw + in the near future then your going to end up with a boost controller anyway so fit it while you have the easy chance.

You can use a r33 ECU being a manual because stagea manuals are pretty rare or even a 300zx ECU with board modifications and NISTUNE (good power :thumbsup: ) . It all depends on what you want to do.

The sump is not a problem. Its the same on a stagea as a GTS-4

In the end you could use the ECU you have now aswell. Just saying you can use any ECU but because they have different features E.G. a r32 GTS-T one would be fine but you wont be able to have VTC.

Best thing for you to do is look into a AFM tuneable ECU or even better a MAP-able ECU as they are a lot more fun.

In the end you could use the ECU you have now aswell. Just saying you can use any ECU but because they have different features E.G. a r32 GTS-T one would be fine but you wont be able to have VTC.

Best thing for you to do is look into a AFM tuneable ECU or even better a MAP-able ECU as they are a lot more fun.

what is a map able ecu, like a Power FC? also would you just suggest a r33 GTST loom and a power fc to match?

Yeah it just needs to be a ECU for series 1 or series 2 specific if hes leaving it stock or it will idle wrong and wont rev over 3000rpm. The wiring hardness's are also series 1 or 2 specific but not so important if the differences are turbo and NA (already stated those above).

A power FC is a ecu that can tune itself around sensors like the AFM etc etc, so if you want to change things like BOV,Injectors etc etc you can work around stalling isues and other things like idle and tune the car but because your using sensors to do it you have a limit to power and how well it really works. With a MAP readable ECU it reads manifold pressure basicly its a better way to calculate everything, way more power, way more accurate and dont need to use things like air flow meters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...