Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im wanting to get a boss kit for my r33 but I found theve got ones where they say for non hicas and non airbag r33s and ones that are for hicas and airbag ones, The price is a big difference between them so what I want to know since I have a hcias lock bar and I dont care if the airbag doesnt work can I just get the normal boss kit or there the fitting for them is different?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374914-confused-on-what-boss-kit-i-need/
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

If you don't care about HICAS, then no, you don't need the HICAS compatible boss. HICAS compatible ones have a pin to drive the steering angle sensor.

I don't know if you can get away with a non-airbag compatible boss on a car that came with an airbag, because I don't know if there is a difference in the steering column itself between the two. Logically, if you were throwing away the airbag wheel and putting on a non-airbag aftermarket wheel, then provided they physical attachment is the same you won't care if the non-airbag boos isn't electrically compatible (or whatever else might not work).

Removing an airbag wheel from an airbag equipped car is not legal though. Just in case you didn't know.

Cheers gts boy

Accept in my case I'm s1. Hicas but no airbag

Hicas is locked

Also it isn't that irresponsible kiwi. I believe airbags make things worse

Good pretensioners and your fine. Were talking about a 20 odd year old airbag system

Not state of the art shit

Probably snap your neck on impact

Lolz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...