Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SSS automotive were advertising GTST-4 RB20DET's for around $1000- with warranty

Fark that a good price for a 20....

but mate at the end of the day its ur choice. I too a few weeks ago i was coming from same situation u r and i stayed true to the 20.I would stick with the rb20 because they arent as shit as people say they are and with a good setup and tune they can be a f**king weapon,u can boost the f**k out of em because of there lower compression and if u take care of it it will last you a long time :worship:

  • 11 months later...
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Found this old thread and decided to dig it up.

Cars still off the road, But has the following:

Rb25 from s1 stagea, pulled appart, crack tested, acid dipped, bored & honed.

Weisco forged pistons .5mm o/s

Tomei poncams

Tomei valve springs

Acl race series bearings (full set)

Arp head stud kit

Cometic 1.01mm head gasket

+ new oem gasket kit ;) + porting etc.

All from www.rawbrokerage.com parts were cheaper than my engine builder could get in, very happy with their service.

Motors ready to go, now I'm sorting out my loom options, and once it's running will be coupled with ext gate gtx3076, e85 and 20-22psi. Aiming for 300-350awkw. So much for 250 awkw haha!

Build thread coming soon

Cheers for everyone's help, took me a while to wake up to the 25, the 20 can be a paperweight.

If you have a S1 stagea motor the ecu will be no good to you as it can't be Nistuned. Look for an R33 loom and then you can fit a Z32 ecu to Nistune or put a Link or Vipec in the R33 case. Trick wire to look for: the one from TPS to Atessa.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...