Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, Can anyone tell me were the 4 wheel drive Computer is located , Also i have a waste spark coil setup of my previous R32 , RB20DET Engine, I want to fit it to my RB25DET Neo Engine, Has anyone got the wiring setup for fitting to the NEO Engine, Do you have to use the rb20det Igniter ?, Thanks your help will be appreciated, Jamind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375059-nissan-stagea-wgnc34-rs4-ser2-2000/
Share on other sites

I believe the 4wd ECU is under the centre console. That's one of the reasons it's so shallow.

Can't answer your second question, however. Is there a particular reason you're wanting to go wasted spark?

Atessa awd computer is in the boot left hand side wall in front of the opening compartment but before the strut tower. Makes it pretty hard to read the codes!!!!

Wasted spark for the RBs is history over here - new coils probably a better bet if you need them.

thanks for the help guys. My old rb20det engine had a miss, I pulled the coils out checked them and at lest 3 had the small cracks in them so they were leaking, So i bought a new waste spark with good leads, as the coil were 90 bucks each, any way at the same time i fitted a Apet ECU Chip to my computer, I started the engine checked the tune and took the car for a spin, Well f..... it freaked me how much power it had, The engine never missed a bet again, Well i sold the engine and keeped the waste spark. I am at the moment fitting a Stagea RS 4, RB25DET Neo to my car, i will run the coils that are in it but the first sing of a coil miss and the waste spark will be going in, So thats the reason thanks Guys

where do you get it from tho

i can't find anyone who even knows what it is

Try an electrical supplies shop or a marine supplies shop - you are just looking for a spray on insulator.

yeah start pulling shit off in the general direction of the inside of the back left quarter panel to find the ets ecu .its on the back of the piece of wall between the strut and the compartment (ish)

f**k what anyone says about wasted spark .they work good . if you wanna do it then do it . yes you will need an ignitor . one off any rb .follow the colours and wire the 6 signals to it then wire the ignitor to the coil like you did on the 20det . join up all the earths and the get some power where its needed and blah blah

It is a CRC product.

i've been to a few places that say they can get anything crc but all have a blank look when i tell them what its called

might have to keep looking, maybe i'll try jaycar for something next time in in there

i've been to a few places that say they can get anything crc but all have a blank look when i tell them what its called

might have to keep looking, maybe i'll try jaycar for something next time in in there

Here's a list of distributors:

http://crcind.com.au/crc-distributors-products

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...