Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a few questions,

i had my car (r32 rb20) with the same mods minus the Z32 and NISTUNE ecu

and it seemed to hammer!

i have since had it installed but i had miss fires etc so wasnt a full tune

but seems not to go as hard as it did before...

so i was wondering if i should stay with the standard AFM with the NISTUNE

and achive a better overall result with the mods i have or i need to go the Z32

mods are

ARC air induction box

ARC side mount intercooler

NISTUNE ecu

3" stainless dump

highflow cat

3.25" cat back

RB25 series 1 turbo running 12 to 13psi

APEXI AVCR boost controler

new timing belt and adjustable cam gears (installed after nistune was installed and on starndard settings)

.... thats all i can think of atm but i will be putting in new coil packs too

if someone could shed some light that be much appreciated

cheers

Edited by Aaron BNR32 GTS-T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375124-standard-afm-or-z32/
Share on other sites

i have a few questions,

i had my car (r32 rb20) with the same mods minus the Z32 and NISTUNE ecu

and it seemed to hammer!

i have since had it installed but i had miss fires etc so wasnt a full tune

but seems not to go as hard as it did before...

so i was wondering if i should stay with the standard AFM with the NISTUNE

and achive a better overall result with the mods i have or i need to go the Z32

mods are

ARC air induction box

ARC side mount intercooler

NISTUNE ecu

3" stainless dump

highflow cat

3.25" cat back

RB25 series 1 turbo

APEXI AVCR boost controler

new timing belt and adjustable cam gears (installed after nistune was installed and on starndard settings)

.... thats all i can think of atm but i will be putting in new coil packs too

if someone could shed some light that be much appreciated

cheers

If you're not maxing out the standard AFM, there is no need to upgrade.

So you've plugged in the NISTUNE ECU & Z32 - without a tune?

Mmm just re-read his post. I thought he had installed the NIStune and was wondering if he needed to get a Z32 to replace the standard AFM.

OP, how far did it get in tuning? Did your tuner adjust the k-constant to suit the new AFM?

Edited by Hanaldo

AFM won't make much difference.

Plus if it is mis-firing and wasn't properly tuned... You kinda answered your question :)

should the z32 read more air up higher but not the best off boost?

cause take off and pickup is slow (dosnt pump threw the revs as fast)

yeah wasnt tuned to its max but it only missed on high load so shouldnt

change down low?

Edited by Aaron BNR32 GTS-T

AFM won't make much difference.

Plus if it is mis-firing and wasn't properly tuned... You kinda answered your question :)

The z32 has better resolution so may be smoother to drive. And seems to have a less restrictive 'pronger' in it. I noticed the difference in mine when I swapped it over. No extra power but smoother (especially down low) and different exhaust note. Maybe no difference for you at all. But yeah...new coils and a tune and it will surprise you. Or at least meet your expectations.

The z32 has better resolution so may be smoother to drive. And seems to have a less restrictive 'pronger' in it. I noticed the difference in mine when I swapped it over. No extra power but smoother (especially down low) and different exhaust note. Maybe no difference for you at all. But yeah...new coils and a tune and it will surprise you. Or at least meet your expectations.

yeah well maby it just the tune and failing coil packs

i will get new ones and get a proper tune and see how things go

hopefully all well! im not looking for mega power, just what i can get

out of her cause i want it reliable and fun to drive! i was hoping to get

200kwatw but im thinking it will be more like 170kw or somthing

Edited by Aaron BNR32 GTS-T

The z32 has better resolution so may be smoother to drive. And seems to have a less restrictive 'pronger' in it. I noticed the difference in mine when I swapped it over. No extra power but smoother (especially down low) and different exhaust note. Maybe no difference for you at all. But yeah...new coils and a tune and it will surprise you. Or at least meet your expectations.

z32 is less accurate than a rb25 afm under light loads

but its still more than accurate enough to have the car driving like standard. if your keeping the standard turbo you've wasted your money on the afm, go back to standard and sell it. if you plan on upgrading later then keep it and ask your tuner to sort out the problems your having.

The z32 has better resolution so may be smoother to drive. And seems to have a less restrictive 'pronger' in it. I noticed the difference in mine when I swapped it over. No extra power but smoother (especially down low) and different exhaust note. Maybe no difference for you at all. But yeah...new coils and a tune and it will surprise you. Or at least meet your expectations.

Only past the point where the 25 one is limited.

The 25 one, as stated, will see better @ lower airflow. Hence a Z32 can read higher airflow.

Just about AFM calibration.

Only past the point where the 25 one is limited.

The 25 one, as stated, will see better @ lower airflow. Hence a Z32 can read higher airflow.

Just about AFM calibration.

I must have been imagining it then. Maybe there was a small change in the fuel map when I swapped the afm settings over in the pfc. Or maybe the lower light load res made it smoother. I have no idea. :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...