Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Engine Flush

RBceffy25

By RBceffy25,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
Posted

As far as the head goes it will be given to a shop for reco and have the face shaved and slightly thicker head gasket will be used. If i can get away with leaving the bottom end i will but if not I will rebuild it. I have a R34 neo sitting around so I may have to swap it in... I didn't want to because of having to re-wire...

Mate even with your head you can check that your self. I don't know the head straightness specs or the surface ra offhand but they will be available somewhere. The surface finish isn't as important with a stock gasket as they take up the imperfections in the head. Just run a straight edge across it and use a feeler gauge to check it. Save yourself 500 to 700 bucks and clean it yourself and check everything yourself. Even as far as checking the valve seats and possibly using some grinding paste on them if necessary is an easy task. There are tools out there for removing the valve springs and checking valve spring tension. Get a baby bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the valves. You could get away with spending less than $300 on tools and parts to freshen up the head and refit it to the engine. I paid for a head to be reco'd once and now I would never do it. Only thing I'd pay for would be the surface grind if it needed it. Generally they don't, sometimes they do.

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

So I have an rb25det with blown head gasket and has been sitting for a while and is still in the car. I am about to pull the head off and do the job but is it possible for me to "flush" the engine in order to get rid of the oil milkshake that is all through the bottom end????

do you know why the HG blew in the first place?detonation? overheating?corrosion of the coolant passages?you will have to sort that out as well otherwise you could pop the next HG that you put on it :thumbsup:

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

Mate even with your head you can check that your self. I don't know the head straightness specs or the surface ra offhand but they will be available somewhere. The surface finish isn't as important with a stock gasket as they take up the imperfections in the head. Just run a straight edge across it and use a feeler gauge to check it. Save yourself 500 to 700 bucks and clean it yourself and check everything yourself. Even as far as checking the valve seats and possibly using some grinding paste on them if necessary is an easy task. There are tools out there for removing the valve springs and checking valve spring tension. Get a baby bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the valves. You could get away with spending less than $300 on tools and parts to freshen up the head and refit it to the engine. I paid for a head to be reco'd once and now I would never do it. Only thing I'd pay for would be the surface grind if it needed it. Generally they don't, sometimes they do.

^^ this is good advice

  • 1 month later...
koe Contributor

koe

Posted
Posted

Coming from a kid that resorts to name calling means about 2 thirds of stuff all. P.s the head flange only got here on Friday.

wow you guys clearly got it wrong.The process of cleaning does require rinsing it off and

everyone cleans there parts with some form of petroleum product.You have the rinse it and let it dry after you clean it tho.....

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
Posted

wow you guys clearly got it wrong.The process of cleaning does require rinsing it off and

everyone cleans there parts with some form of petroleum product.You have the rinse it and let it dry after you clean it tho.....

Mate if you read the thread they are talking about putting petrol or similar through an engine from the oil filler and draining it out the bottom. Read before you post. And you sure as shit wouldn't "rinse" an engine after putting petrol or diesel through it. And what happens to your engine if you let it dry after said rinsing? No one in their right mind would start a washed, rinsed and dried engine. Oh my god I am wasting my time here.

pinch.gif

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Yeh you keep saying that but we're not skinning cats.

What is significantly different? They both turn the motor. Cranking uses the power of the starter motor to do so and then once it's running the engine can use it's own power. Essentially the only difference is the RPM.

Cranking it vs running it has one key difference, there is no downwards force on the bearings from the pistons firing. There will still need to be oil pressure and oil that can stop the bearings touching, but no where near as much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Tomei gasket

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
×
×
  • Create New...