Jump to content
SAU Community

Camry Engine/box Reliability

Galois

By Galois,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted

pretty good. i've gotten used to the r154, its a little clunky, but you learn to deal with it. i'll have to do the timing belts soon though. and i haven't fixed my speed sensor. so i get lottery numbers at speeds above 70kmh. lol

Baha, makes the speed cameras more exciting!

greensa14 Collaborator

greensa14

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 1990 Camry for a cheap daily. Cost me $600 with Reg. I know this is a lot older than you are looking for, but i still see a lot of these on the road which can only say good things about the reliability.

But have to agree......Corolla's and Camry's are very reliable cars.

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

Hmmm, how exactly do I keep an eye on them? Watch for the engine light and listen for knocking? How would I notice if the variable length intake manifold (didn't know it had one btw lol) is playing up? Sorry for the qs.

$4700, I'm imagining we'll be using this car for a long long time though. It's so comfortable, easily enough grunt to pull a trailer on a freeway, just nice to cruise in. I just have to make sure to keep up the amorall and waxing etc to keep it in good shape. Will probably change all fluids over the next 20k km, just so I know what's in there. Might be worth putting a transmission cooler on too.

How's the soarer going?

LOL - Sorry. What I meant was, these are things that commonly go wrong with these cars, probably have some spares handy - so if any go bung, just replace them - or replace them now as pre-emptive maintenance :)

Regarding the variable intake length manifold - It's just something to be aware of - as the issue seems to "confuse" mechanics into thinking the issue is something else.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just bought a 1990 Camry for a cheap daily. Cost me $600 with Reg. I know this is a lot older than you are looking for, but i still see a lot of these on the road which can only say good things about the reliability.

But have to agree......Corolla's and Camry's are very reliable cars.

Nice buy, there are plenty on the road. Did you go the I4 or the v6? Auto or manual. My grandmother had one of these before she passed. It sat in our driveway for 2 years untouched. When a wrecker came to pick it up, he hooked up a battery and it started on the second tickover... THE SECOND. Quicker than my skyline at the time, than either of my cars now. I couldn't believe it. He then put into Drive, and off he went onto his car-towing trailer.

i've learnt to drive at gear 4, 3500rpm,

and gear 5, 2800rpm

What speeds are these? The appropriate ones for your local speed cameras I guess? haha

LOL - Sorry. What I meant was, these are things that commonly go wrong with these cars, probably have some spares handy - so if any go bung, just replace them - or replace them now as pre-emptive maintenance :)

Regarding the variable intake length manifold - It's just something to be aware of - as the issue seems to "confuse" mechanics into thinking the issue is something else.

Ahh cheers mate. Only issue at the moment is the overdrive light, which is apparently a fuse. Oh, and also the towbar has some surface rust. Common problem, will take it off and either try to fix it myself or get a pro to sandblast and re-paint it (not paint, whatever that tough rubber stuff it).

Any suggestions on who might be able to do this?

SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had an SV21 2.0 manual for my first car. It was red so it went faster.

Put a 3k sound system in it, lol.

Thrashed the absolute balls off it, put cheap 20W50 in it. Engine never complained once. Blew the gearbox dropping 2nd like a sikkunt p-plater haha :P $400 to replace, no biggie!

Mum even kept it after I was done with it, after 250,000 ks the suspension was pretty shagged, think it developed a power steering leak too but it still ran perfectly! To this day its still the comfiest car I ever owned. (Better than the BA Fairmont Ghia I had for a while)

Sold it for 2.5k to some schmuck :thumbsup:

TOYO0038.jpg?aspect=Default

What a machine!! :rofl2:

Edited by SoFreshSoClean
Silvia GTR Mentor

Silvia GTR

Posted
Posted

probably the biggest issue is more if it's been owned by someone who doesn't get it serviced as often as they should

As regards to all cars, this. I did an oil change on my mates, mates camry that had not been changed in over year.....yucky.gifwacko.gif

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had an SV21 2.0 manual for my first car. It was red so it went faster.

Put a 3k sound system in it, lol.

Thrashed the absolute balls off it, put cheap 20W50 in it. Engine never complained once. Blew the gearbox dropping 2nd like a sikkunt p-plater haha :P $400 to replace, no biggie!

Mum even kept it after I was done with it, after 250,000 ks the suspension was pretty shagged, think it developed a power steering leak too but it still ran perfectly! To this day its still the comfiest car I ever owned. (Better than the BA Fairmont Ghia I had for a while)

Sold it for 2.5k to some schmuck :thumbsup:

TOYO0038.jpg?aspect=Default

What a machine!! :rofl2:

You got 2.5k for that?!?!?! Schmuck indeed!

As regards to all cars, this. I did an oil change on my mates, mates camry that had not been changed in over year.....yucky.gifwacko.gif

True, that's why I went for the one that I did. Had 190k km but looked immaculate, had good service history, and the engine bay was greasy enough that it hadn't had a clean but not a hint of an oil leak. Was much better than all the others we'd seen which all had far less kms

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • drifter17a
      Rb25det timing belt position on cam gear

      By drifter17a · Posted

      I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • GTSBoy
      Powder coat on mating surface

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • GTSBoy
      Hiya!

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Curlyfred
      Hiya!

      By Curlyfred · Posted

      Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
×
×
  • Create New...