Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26 Stuff below has traveled 5,000 k's unless otherwise stated. Car is being build now with a stroker and external oil pump.

Splitfire coils to suit RB25/26, perfect working order $400

HKS RB cam gears $200

Genuine Bosch Indy Blue's set of 4, less than 3,000 km's of work $400

RB26 N1 oil pump, 5,000 km's old $200

86.5mm (20 thou) CP Forged Pistons and shot peened factory rods with ARP bolts, top nick, have travelled 5,000 km's. Have produced 580kW aty the wheels on E85, upgrading to stroker engine

$500

S13 / SR20 / Universal bits

SR20VE NEO VVL P11 head - complete, low kms

It comes with the stuff you need for a conversion, VVL solenoids, cams and lower runners which gives you the option to run a bolt on plenum to suit RWD conversion.

No matter what you do to your DET head, you'll be hard pressed doing better than one of these in stock form.

$1300 FIRM, pickup welcome in Sydney, delivery at your expense!

BE QUICK! These are very hard to get!

SR20DE head, top condition no cams, shims or rockers but has cam caps $100

SR20DET Cams, good condition $50

S13 ARC front sway bar, it's a monster of a thing very thick $150

2 x S13 dashes, one is average condition, it has some scratches and wear marks but no major cracks $50

The other came out of my S13, it has been cut to suit a weld in roll cage and 3 perfect holes cut for 60mm gauges (I had Defi BF's in it) Perfect condition otherwise no scratches, nothing! $50

Greddy blue oil cap decent condition $30

Trust/GREX chrome ball gear knob (to suit a Honda) $50

Universal complete 4" Induction kit to suit SR/RB, includes pipe, silicone hoses, clamps and K & N air filter. Will suit GT30/3076/3037S/GT35/T04Z black or blue silicone $250

Pics available on request

Located in Sydney Inner West/West

Call PJ: 0438 1600 81

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...