Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Good to hear that this has worked well for you mate. Now time to dyno it to have a power figure to work with :P

Well, I got it dynoed a week ago, completely stock turbo 5psi, 134rwkw which is pretty basic for a stock rb25det (auto), i was told boost it to 10psi could get another 30rwkw maybe? will have to find out :)

good o hear :yes:

Hypothetically i get an increase of 30RWKW, that will make it 165RWKW, what would be the next best thing to do to this engine to make it say hit the 200RWKW mark and be safe for stock engine and running gear?

just after some informed opinions, the next best mod or change to get it to the 200 RWKW mark :)

high flow turbo or a garrett aftermarket turbo GT3071x

thanks, i was hoping there could be other mods without changing the turbo? or can you get a decent turbo for a few hundred and just straight swap? :) just after 200rwkw :P

If you haven't already:

  • 3" exhaust turbo-back exhaust
  • a front-mount intercooler

That with an ECU tune should see you around 200rwkw

Hell, my R34 was doing 182.7rwkw with just a 3" exhaust, and an intercooler - still on factory boost solenoid (saw peaks out to 8psi).

I've since fitted a 10psi R32 actuator; I would hope mine will do in-excess of 200rwkw once my ECU is tuned (I have an un-tuned nistune fitted)

Unfortunately in your case with an R33, a nistune is a less straight forward exercise, but an ECU (R32/Z33-based nistune, PFC, etc) should be your next step assuming you already have an exhaust, FMIC. This will help get rid of the factory overly-rich AFRs. It might also be worth considering your fuel-pump if this hasn't been replaced already. They do tend to wear, and require replacement.

If you haven't already:

  • 3" exhaust turbo-back exhaust
  • a front-mount intercooler

That with an ECU tune should see you around 200rwkw

Hell, my R34 was doing 182.7rwkw with just a 3" exhaust, and an intercooler - still on factory boost solenoid (saw peaks out to 8psi).

I've since fitted a 10psi R32 actuator; I would hope mine will do in-excess of 200rwkw once my ECU is tuned (I have an un-tuned nistune fitted)

Unfortunately in your case with an R33, a nistune is a less straight forward exercise, but an ECU (R32/Z33-based nistune, PFC, etc) should be your next step assuming you already have an exhaust, FMIC. This will help get rid of the factory overly-rich AFRs. It might also be worth considering your fuel-pump if this hasn't been replaced already. They do tend to wear, and require replacement.

Hi, yes i have FMIC and CAI and 3inch turbo back+hi flow cat, stock 5psi actuator seen 134rwkw, now i have r32 actuator im hoping at least 30rwkw increase, and then push for another 30 with a tune or something without changing turbos, surely you can reach 200RWKW off a stock rb25det with little mods I have mentioned? thanks

And then for some strange reason, at some point after these mods 200kw just wont satisfy any more. Keep in mind that everything else on the car will need replacing/upgraded sooner or later if the power output is increased significantly.

Once you make the decision to modify your car, there is no turning back.

Just a warning haha

I ran my car with the stock turbo on 12.5psi making roughly 215rwkw. The supporting mods were, Coilpacks, FMIC, Turbo back exhaust, Power FC, 740cc injectors (however you won't need to upgrade injectors or AFM to hit 200 rwkw). So a small list of mods should see that power figure :D

just chuck it on a hub dyno and make 200 as is!?

heey guys, just wondering since changing the actuator to R32 should I get a tune? like the car runs quicker but still average at the 0-60 mark? can i tune my standard ecu at all? will it make much difference? or wat should i, could I do to make the car have more response?

mate, take this advice onboard and run with it coming from sum1 who has spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on cars in the past 5 years...

like a few other members said once u get to that "200kw" mark u NOW want once u acheive it u wil want 250, then 300 n so on, TRUST US, u wil, its a like a drug lol

go straight for a power fc, easy to tune and retune afta other mods r put in place (always pop up for sale on here and ebay)

next would b fuel pump and z32 afm

afta that id go coil packs, and direct replacment injectors

and finally turbo (either garret or precision)

if i were u id save all ur penny and do this at once, yes it may cost arounfd 5grand but if u do 1 thing at a time, retuning it everytime to support the next mod

u wil spend thousands just on tuning when u could b spending that on quality upgrade mods and get a 1 off tune...

beauty of have say 250-300rwkw is if u want that 200kw u want just turn the boost down (high boost switch is fun n convenient :)

i think every1 here wil agree with this post, save time, money and go have fun....

Yep totally agree with the post above. Spend all the cash on buying all the upgrades then save and have them put in or DIY and then get a tune. Otherwise you will end up paying a crazy amount on a mod upgrade and tune.

Most things you won't worry about getting a tune with, for example putting that actuator on, you really don't need a tune but look at getting an aftermarket ecu as the stock ecu's are no good for tuning :D

So you want more and more and more power, and a GTR style body kit .... why don't you just buy the right car = sell your Gtst and buy a GTR. It is the only real answer. As everyone has said above, you will continue spending significant amounts of money to get more power .... start on the right foot and just buy a GTR!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...