Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so i have these wheels sitting in my carport & im thinking they'd be good for drifting or powder coating..

There in ok condition with no buckles or dents etc, but they do have some heavy grazing on the face & around the egdes! They were originally chrome / Rays Metal Coating finish ( RMC ) but have pitting & flaking so i was going to get them blasted, sanded & powder coated then either sell em for what there worth or keep them for spares but im moving house so am thinking selling is the way to go..

There the 'SF Challenge' model which come in dished & non dished, these are the non dished type / flat face. I've seen them retail for 5500 new though that was for the dished version! I'm guessing these wouldnt be too far below that when they were new, but i got these on a non complied 32 i purchased a while back for a track car. Will get some pics up soon but if you want to come check them out im in Sydneys west, around Blacktown. Am chasing around $350 for em, they're 17 x 8's & 17 x 9's i think.. I know the rear two were slightly wider than the fronts!

Remember, there Genuine FORGED VOLKS with VOLK RACING around the inside of the rim & they are in need of some TLC! But as i said, nothing a blast, sand & coating cant fix!! The tyres are in good condition with about 70% tread.. So if your keen, send me a PM or drop me a line here.. Thanks guys :cool:

Oh heres a link of what they looked like new! There the same wheels as these just without the dish, straight flat..

http://www.nengun.com/rays-engineering/volk-racing-sf-challenge

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375893-volk-racing-rays-wheels-cheap/
Share on other sites

No worries mate, will do... Cheers!!

Might be interested in a swap for something of interest if anyones keen on em, cash can be hard to pass on at times lol... So yeah, easy either way!! Cash or swap i guess...

Hey Guys, still dont have any pics atm... They're stored at a mates place & havnt been able to get down there to take any but i will try my best to get some asap!! Though if you's are keen come check em out, oh & i found this link with a set for sale for $1800 without tyres, second hand & they're the exact same style of SF Challenge ( flat face )...

http://www.importmonster.com.au/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22_40_45&products_id=919

I need these gone ASAP! $250 today / tomorrow, no offers! Absolute bargain!! Need to fund a 30th bday :banana:

Bump! Still for sale!! ... Rears are 17 x 9's +35 & fronts are 17 x 8's though its hard to make out what the offset is cause one of the Balance weights are covering the little Rays sticker which sez 'SF +??' ... Looks like it could be +30 something, plus 30 maybe??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...