Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want a RB25 head and a cheap fiberglass bonnet.

I told you I have an RB25 head you can buy for a good price... You just need the RB30 to bolt it onto! :P

PS: Chubbs... WIN IT OR BIN IT!

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sup lads!

managed a 1.13.6 in race 2 - a PB

managed 3rd in race 1

superTT = I need more power and less cars in qualfying. could not get any space and managed a 1.15.3

there were about 9 of us doing 1.15 and we all 2 seconds off.

few people on slicks, others not but made for some good battles.

I dont think I'll be racing from now until Jan so my plan is

clutch

ECU

Cams

sup lads!

managed a 1.13.6 in race 2 - a PB

managed 3rd in race 1

superTT = I need more power and less cars in qualfying. could not get any space and managed a 1.15.3

there were about 9 of us doing 1.15 and we all 2 seconds off.

few people on slicks, others not but made for some good battles.

I dont think I'll be racing from now until Jan so my plan is

clutch

ECU

Cams

It was a good day on sunday, and it certainly was busy on track during the qualifying laps, not that much room for anyone at all. What did happen in race 1 chris when the front cars disapeared? Nice work out there also.

Seemed like a really well run event from a spectators point of view there was a really quick turn around on the races and some nice cars there to.

Cheers,

You didnt come and say gidday!!

I dont bite...hard....just ask Ryan, Mark and Andrew :D

hahahahahahaha yeah I had no idea until I got to pits and the other MX5 guys gave me a clap and cheered!

I was too busy concentrating against that Alfa and before I knew it 6 laps was up

but with those other MX5's, Nick in the turbo NA6 came into pits as had coil/plug dramas, and 3 other MX5's followed him thinking that was the end of the race, Nick went back out but because the other 3 had already left pitlane to go into paddock they were not allowed to re-enter.

So 3rd place was mine!! fkn booyaaa I'll take what I can get esp I have the lowest power there!

did you see the big oil down from the future racers? 75% of the track was fubared :(

Ive never had the MX5 that sideways before!!!

so whats your plans? racing next year?

I will be keeping the R33 and will be racing that, pending whether i can keep it street registerd. It seemed that the red evo in the super TT class had number plates, i didnt get a close enough look in the pits and wasnt sure if it was road registered or he just liked number plates, but there seemed to be a few cars without a full cage (unless im blind), so still not sure if i can just put a half cage and keep it registered. I will ring someone in the MRA in the coming weeks and have a chat.

I know i didnt go and say hello, you where in the last pit stall i think, you where chatting and then my shyness kicked in.

Regards,

hahaha all good mate - Im an easy going bloke and love a chat!

infact these MRA guys n gals (majority) are really approachable and friendly!

My mate Ryan in the red SSS doing 1.08's is street rego'd with full cage....until he gets caught..? haha

I dont think they'll allow half cages ? if you have an MX5 you can get away with just a CAMS approved roll bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...