Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

just drove to newcastle and back in under 24 hours to have a look around as im moving up there next year,

my girlfriend is moving 5 months before me so im going to be driving it ALOT and after that drive i really need cruise control, my lower back in absolutely killing me!! (im only 20)

has anyone done this mod? i couldnt find it in search bar.

i need to know, how much it costs, how hard it is to fit and pointed in the direction of a good unit.

just looking for a cheap and easy option seeing as ill probly be fitting it into atleast two cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376826-omg-i-need-cruise-control/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

just drove to newcastle and back in under 24 hours to have a look around as im moving up there next year,

my girlfriend is moving 5 months before me so im going to be driving it ALOT and after that drive i really need cruise control, my lower back in absolutely killing me!! (im only 20)

has anyone done this mod? i couldnt find it in search bar.

i need to know, how much it costs, how hard it is to fit and pointed in the direction of a good unit.

just looking for a cheap and easy option seeing as ill probly be fitting it into atleast two cars.

it can be done easy, nissan failed , they forgot that option..lol remember a hi power car on wet roads and cruise control is a dangerous mix even with 4 wheel drive on GTR. ?

I often wish mine had it but know its a bit dangerous if the boost hits on a bump or slippery roads. even with traction control on you could be in the trees in seconds

your back hurting would be more of the seat and or too stiff suspension. jap coilovers are really setup stiff they have smooth roads . my Bilstiens coilovers are shocking and have been setup reduced even. my GTT seats and my large frame dont match. I bought new ones , or if you have really tall rims and low profile tyres it trashes the ride quality too

australia has some horrible roads , the dirt ones are smoother sometimes.

i wouldnt do cruise control on a stick shift skyline, autobox maybe if not modded up a lot

i got a stock gtt, manual, stock wheels.

hmm yeah i thought that too but i spose i could move my legs around if i had the cruise control.

it wouldnt me to dangerous on a dry day in 5th gear would it??

the syd-newcastle fwy is an aweful road!!! an hour and a half of a steady foot. aweful!!!!!!!

the other option is buying a second car, ive been looking at the honda jazz. think that would be more comfortable??

i would prefer not to drive the skyline every fortnight for 600ish kms hah

thats my fun car! not my broken back car!

I'm not a fan of cruise control but when time/funds permit I'll be fitting cruise to the 32.

Nothing flash, just an AP60 and apart from the "on" switch, I'll only use a "set" button mounted on the gearstick.

Clutch and brake switches will be the kills.

Was concerned the vacuum style of cruise would give problems with a turbo engine but no, they work fine.

Been in Skylines a lot and unless you're Danny Devito, your legs will soon rub the paint off the driver's arm rest and your leg will cramp from holding the accelerator UP.

On the highway they just want to go faster as they're so smooth from 3000rpm on.

I'm not a fan of cruise control but when time/funds permit I'll be fitting cruise to the 32.

Nothing flash, just an AP60 and apart from the "on" switch, I'll only use a "set" button mounted on the gearstick.

Clutch and brake switches will be the kills.

Was concerned the vacuum style of cruise would give problems with a turbo engine but no, they work fine.

Been in Skylines a lot and unless you're Danny Devito, your legs will soon rub the paint off the driver's arm rest and your leg will cramp from holding the accelerator UP.

On the highway they just want to go faster as they're so smooth from 3000rpm on.

try a light rear end turbo power car on a hill in wet weather or bumpy roads, the boost comes on and your sideways(on cruise you need a traction cutout but it will be too late by then IMO) . Im 6'2 and sunroof in my car lowers the roof a lot. the seats are made for someone 5'3 ??so I feel your pain on space ... just take a break , a cruise is fine for a 4cyl camry but not a skyline turbo

This might come in handy. (I drive an auto skyline - so I imagine it will be much easier to install)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CRUISE-CONTROL-AP60-UNIVERSAL-DIY-KIT-NEW-WARRANTY-/260850094810?pt=AU_Electronics_Accessories_Remote_Controls&hash=item3cbbe092da

I typed "universal cruise control" into google.

Love my cruise control in my gtt.

If you are coming to an unfamiliar crest click it off for a few seconds if it comes on boost then reset

If you are driving the same roads day in day out you can can predictict the cars reaction.

  • 2 weeks later...

I must be missing something crucial here.:blush:

Correct me if I'm wrong, the cruise control is basically looking for a set number of pulses from either the ecu speed signal, or a magnetic pick up.

If the car came on boost and started to wheelspin or accelerate wildly, this would manifest in an increase in pulses; exactly what the cruise control is there to correct. Would this then not result in the cruise control releasing the throttle; thus eliminating the problem? Or is it more a case of the speed that the cruise control reacts?

Surely you guys aren't driving cars with so much power and response that they break into spontaneous wheelspin at 110km/h in top gear?:blink:

I would have thought an auto would actually be more of a risk for "surging" due to their ability to kick down a couple of gears unaided and end up on boost; versus a manual which will be more likely to labour a little.

When driving cars with cruise, I tend to give a little manual throttle on the lead up to a decent incline; to help it along, as they often fall off the torque curve before realising they need to increase the throttle opening to maintain the set speed, by which time speed has dropped by 10 -15 km/h. This is when you tend to see cruise control making aggressive throttle adjustments.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...