Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone. I've got my dyne tune this week and just wondering what people have used to cover the hole on the gear box when the front shaft is removed. Also what one of the fuses do I pull out? Thanks.

Ps. I couldnt find the answer on google.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376852-getting-ready-for-dyno-this-week/
Share on other sites

I have driven a few hundred km with the front drive shaft out. On the S1 you go to the fusebox in the engine bay and there is a square green fuse for the awd - pull that out - your awd warning light should come on - that's as it should be.

Bloody he'll....should not happen....that is a thick oil IMO and should be fine. Any oil on the rear window of the car???.....if not have a look under the car for leaks.

I'm lucky if I loose 50mls in the VQ in 10000kms....even our race RB,s don't use that much.

P.s came in here to wish you luck on your dyno run.

ive had the car for 100000kms i service the car every 5000kms and every service i measure the oil and i always have lost 500ml every time. I use motul 5w40 but my car does not stop all day so mayby its understandable. My garage floor is pollished concrete so i know there is no leeks.

funny my 78 skyline c210 did the same 500ml every time weird i thought it was a skyline thing

mates c34 just got 230kwatw on e85 and the auto is shitting its self and he fills up every day.

keep us up to date with the resaults i want to get mine done soon.

I think it's done it the whole time I've had it :/. Oh well. I had this fear that the day before the dyno it would blow up or something and sure enough as of yesterday there is a horrible noise, sounds like really bad knock at about 4000 rpm. Another strange thing the hyper gear high pressure actuator holds a steady 14psi well up until the noise starts and I stop accelerating.

I'm curious why there is imperial sized nuts on a Japanese car. So f**king pissed off right now, I have a rounded nut now because I was using a 12mm spanner. Oh yay $165 for the tuner to remove the drive shaft. Just what I needed

I think it's done it the whole time I've had it :/. Oh well. I had this fear that the day before the dyno it would blow up or something and sure enough as of yesterday there is a horrible noise, sounds like really bad knock at about 4000 rpm. Another strange thing the hyper gear high pressure actuator holds a steady 14psi well up until the noise starts and I stop accelerating.

Probably knocking its head off. 14PSI on a highflow with no tune is a receipe for disaster.

Yer, I actually forgot i was like WTF then oh yeah it's at yatala. If I can get 250kw il be happy that should be enough towing power.

Be interesting to see what it pulls. I use the same tuner. Shaun will leave it nice and rich and safe for daily driving.

I only get 258rwkw on 16psi with a gt3076R .82 IW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...