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Given the people involved, the diagnostics they have been resorting to and generally giving them credit I'd think (or hope) that its almost insulting to make these suggestions on the assumption they weren't the first points of call. It'd be very interesting to see a datalog file as the car warms up, however - if that were a possibility?

You would be suprised

Amount of fuel to flow out of the injector is dependant on the opening time(For this purpose we will ignore injector lag times) and fuel pressure.

The more fuel pressure the more fuel will flow at the same opening time(This is also discounting changes in manifold pressure)

If you have a faulty FPR it could make the fuelling go all over the place.

That said if injectors are not getting a constant good voltage source, injector opening times will change, this will change the amount of fuel being injected but wont nessesarly change the pulsewidth's especially if the ECU is not seeing the same voltage drop

not sure if this is relevant

..but when i got my car tuned originally I had never changed the fuel filter. Must of been dirty, then i changed it oneday giving it a serivce and all of a sudden was running very rich .first got told it was a boost leak ,I thought it was FPR busted cause I had hooked fuel lines up wrong at first, but it was just a filter that changed pressures and threw my whole tune out.. :/

Trent fixed it I dunno how ...had him stumped for a while too...

Since most things have already been pointed out, what about the grounding of the engine to chassis, etc. I know the BA Falcon's have an issue where they would run rich and even stall, all caused by the chassis/motor grounding being installed wrong.

Given the people involved, the diagnostics they have been resorting to and generally giving them credit I'd think (or hope) that its almost insulting to make these suggestions on the assumption they weren't the first points of call. It'd be very interesting to see a datalog file as the car warms up, however - if that were a possibility?

Well it basically has to be one of these things, how else does fuel magically get into the cylinder?

Tried another ECU that isn't a Haltech? I had a *very* similar issue along with some other "electrical gremlins" (intermittent misfiring and some other problems), the Haltech setup had been checked by many people whom could see nothing wrong with it - swapped it out for an Autronic ECU and the car has never run better.

Never did resolve the problems with the Haltech, as said many people had looked at it and said there was nothing wrong with the setup, it just would not work reliably in my car for whatever reason. Power FC had no problem, Autronic has no problem, Haltech had nothing but problems... *shrug* go figure.

Yeah this isn't the first time I've heard of nondiagnosable problems with a haltech, most people end up fixing it by using another ECU.

Might not be the ECU, might be some weird combination throwing it out, but sometimes its just cheaper and less time to try another ECU.

Yeah I was wondering about that too, ECU sounds like it CLAIMS its doing everything right - fuel pressure sounds right, something "lying" is the next most likely option.

yes sadly if you are paying a workshop $100-$150 an hour to diagnose a problem it can often be cheaper to switch to another ecu if the problem is specific to that brand ECU... considering you're likely to recoup 50-70% of what you paid for it the changeover cost to a new ECU may not be too bad.

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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