Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Bleeding-Tool-1-man-bleeder-EBC-Ferodo-Brembo-/160560674522?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25622976da

anyone tried this? I think it's the same thing as speed-bleeders, which I've heard work well. Make it alot easier to do for not much money if they do work...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377485-bleeding-brakes/
Share on other sites

thanks for that. My main concern was how would you know when all air is out if you can't see it? Would prefer the 2 person method so I can see what's coming out but my better half is away at moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377485-bleeding-brakes/#findComment-6020098
Share on other sites

you cant really tell when all the air is bled out, as ud probably kno u have to lock em up so they hold pressure it just makes it easier being able to pump the pedal without having to lock and unliock the bleed nipple. but u still have to check the pedal feel every now so often

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377485-bleeding-brakes/#findComment-6020101
Share on other sites

Look for a vacuum style bleeder? The Snap-On one of mine came as a kit with a reservoir and bleeder. You attache the 1/2 litre reservoir to the master cylinder and it drains itself as the fluid level drops. The other end attaches to the bleed nipple, runs off an air line, crack the bleeder with it attached and turned on and it sucks the fluid out and lets you see it coming out.

Admittedly, have had trouble on the RARE occasion where the brakes haven't bled properly and had to manually 2-man bleed them. Or when the rubber elbow isn't sitting properly on the nipple and looks like there's air coming out still when there isn't...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377485-bleeding-brakes/#findComment-6028280
Share on other sites

piece of piss doing it by yourself! i did it recently as I upgraded to braided brake lines. it takes quite a few pumps of the brake pedal to fully empty the master cylinder anyway. I normally do about 8-10 pumps of the pedal then top up the resevoir and then check to see how full the little container is. one of those magnetic containers would make it so much easier though, rather than trying to balance the container on top of the wheel lol. one tip incase you weren't aware... make sure the container catching the fluid is always sitting above the bleed nipple so its actually pushing the air out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377485-bleeding-brakes/#findComment-6028318
Share on other sites

hell I just use a clear hose thats the right size to fit the nipple snug & long enough to go from the nipple over the top arm into a glass bottle, no one way valves or special tools needed..

simple, works and is cheap, think it cost me $2.50 never spilt a drop of fluid and always do bleeding by myself, actually I do all the work on my cars by myself, my friends arnt that into cars...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377485-bleeding-brakes/#findComment-6028517
Share on other sites

hell I just use a clear hose thats the right size to fit the nipple snug & long enough to go from the nipple over the top arm into a glass bottle, no one way valves or special tools needed..

simple, works and is cheap, think it cost me $2.50 never spilt a drop of fluid and always do bleeding by myself, actually I do all the work on my cars by myself, my friends arnt that into cars...

right on mate!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377485-bleeding-brakes/#findComment-6028746
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...