Jump to content
SAU Community

Electronic Ignition Spark Problem

coupe72001

By coupe72001,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377739-electronic-ignition-spark-problem/
Share on other sites
hcg210 Collaborator

hcg210

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

Hi Drew,

Check the condtion of your leads, try another set to see if it still does it.

Mario

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Possibly a failing/cracked coil - is there any oil or staining present around it?

NIssanman would only know about buggered R30 ignitions because I own(ed) all the R30's in the family...

rofl.gif

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi, the coil looks good, although crack spotting is hard with a black coil, but I've ordered another one off fleabay to eliminate this possibility anyway. We'll see how we go if it ever turns up!

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

You said this is on a 260C ?, is it a 12 volt, or 7.5 volt system ( coil ) ?

the original system on my 240K worked like this, 12 volts on crank, 7.5ish on running ( one wire was built with resistance in it), to get around this , for me , at the ignition switch, there was 2 wires running back to the coil, 12v for start, 7.5ish for run, so I join them together, so 12v crank and run, then I connect my electronic ignition distributor to this, I ran a wire from the + on the coil (12v) to the module on the dissy)

it's easy

Nigel

Edited by noddle
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Very awesome theory. I didn't know about the 7.5V wire. At any rate, new and old coils alike all say 12V.

To eliminate wiring as an issue, I've hot-wired the car with 15amp wires as follows:

1. Positive terminal on battery to positive terminal on coil.

2. B (battery) from the ignition module to positive on the coil.

3. C (coil) on the ignition module to negative on the coil.

4. The ballast resistor has been deleted.

The results are the same. Arcing with the factory coil. Inability to start with new aftermarket coil. Bummer.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I gave up and went to an auto electrician. The distributor was running the incorrect rotor button. I blame Autobarn. Interestingly, the standard Datsun coil was`the only one powerful enough to throw the spark the extra (excessive) distance between rotor button and distributor cap. The sparkys were stunned the car ran at all.

Thanks to all who offered theories. D

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just for the record, there are two types of dizzy for R30. One for Auto, one for manual.

I dont know what the difference is but it is listed in the workshop manual and I know a manual wont start with an auto dizzy.

Edited by 66yostagea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • QB6SAGR
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • funkymonkey
      Howdy Y'all

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Starting again

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • R33_Guy
      Speed Sensor replacement

      By R33_Guy · Posted

      Thank you so much for the help
    • GTSBoy
      Speed Sensor replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...