Setting Up New Pfc

[PyroIndustries]

Hey Guys, Ive finaly finished putting together my build and now need to set the PFC so i can get it to the tune shop. ive never played with a PFC before and to be honest a little scard to touch the hand controller lol

Ok its a R33 S2 GTSt and ive done:

Z32 AFM

Sard 555cc Injectors (denso 195500 2240)

Hiflow stock turbo

Tomi Pon cams

Greddy Profec b boost controller (run 10psi atm)

FMIC

Any Help would be much appreciated

Thanks, Dave

[75coupe]

easy answer, get a flatbed to come and collect it and take it to your tuner

[boostn0199]

Basically to get it running to get to the tuner youll just need to select z32 afm and also set ur injector vaules which from memory for 555 it would 0.67 and .18 latency but check to be sure. Have a look at pauls faq for details how to do this all.

[PyroIndustries]

Would prefer the flat bed but tuner is about 500 ks away. will have a look a pauls faq for now

[paulr33]

no matter what you do

run minimum boost

dont load it up

dont flog it

simple

with the basic z32 set and injector settings set correctly and default maps you should be ok

if in doubt, richen it up a little as an insurance policy

if you flog it, boost it up, trash it

expect it to go bang as you have changed quiet a bit

[JonnoHR31]

Basically to get it running to get to the tuner youll just need to select z32 afm and also set ur injector vaules which from memory for 555 it would 0.67 and .18 latency but check to be sure. Have a look at pauls faq for details how to do this all.

.18 is for the nismo 555s, sard/denso will be different.

as said though, select vg30 from the airflow list and scale the injectors to 67%. do a search around here and check pauls faq to see if you can find the latency figures for your injectors.

[Room42]

The ignition timing in the standard pfc (not tuned) is too much for 98 ron fuel. It will knock like hell. However it is not that hard to sort out and I'm sure you could fix it up with a bit of help. I have an ign map that you can put in and it will be fine. It works on my car with a stock turbo and I can run it up to and over 16psi without any significant knock. It has been proven on a dyno after I tuned it. However as your turbo will be putting out a lot more air than mine I would suggest that you pull 2 degrees on the temporary ign adjust and run it like that to guarantee no knock. Then when you know there is no knock leave it as is. Bear in mind that the temp ign adjustment will be reset every time you turn off the car. I can help you with the ignition timing but the fuel is not something that can be done over the phone or the internet. Luckily the power fc is rich as crap when untuned so you should be ok. BUT you have to get a wideband and check it BEFORE you flog it. Like it has been mentioned you car can go 'bang' very quickly if it runs lean and you are giving it shit for an extended period. You could break it in under a minute given the right conditions. To summarize, I'd repeat what Paul said. I'd also say put in the ign tune that I'll pm you (If you like) and then drive it to the tuner immediately to get it tuned. Cos the ign side will be mostly done, it will cost a lot less to get tuned. Read the pfc faq and make sure you set the idle up right. Hmmm...thats about it.

[SargeRX8]

If the PFC is not brand new then it may have a tune on it. Init data first to ensure any old tunes are gone. Then setup the injector settings and set it to the correct AFM. Then what I would do is pull 5 degrees of timing across the whole map. Settings and then in ignition and set adjust to -5. Car will run like shit but should be safe enough to get to the tuner. Ive experienced a stock power fc on a stock car and flogging it lol. Det heaven.

[Room42]

If the PFC is not brand new then it may have a tune on it. Init data first to ensure any old tunes are gone. Then setup the injector settings and set it to the correct AFM. Then what I would do is pull 5 degrees of timing across the whole map. Settings and then in ignition and set adjust to -5. Car will run like shit but should be safe enough to get to the tuner. Ive experienced a stock power fc on a stock car and flogging it lol. Det heaven.

Yes that is a good point. There probably is a tune on it already. In the pfc faq you will find everything you need to set up the injectors and afm. Just read. Although pulling 5 degrees across the board would keep knock away I think it is a bit drastic. Some areas actually need 5 degrees added to them.

[AngryRB]

isnt there a setting on the power fc that if turnt on and the car knocks, it makes the engine light flash

ive had that happen on mine one time..

[PyroIndustries]

yeah im scared now. lol

think im just gonna tow it to my tuner. dont think i should drive it 500 ks anyway

[JonnoHR31]

isnt there a setting on the power fc that if turnt on and the car knocks, it makes the engine light flash

ive had that happen on mine one time..

yes, by default it flashes the engine light if knock exceeds 60, injector duty exceeds 98% or afm voltage gets close to maxxed. all 3 have a different type of flash.

[Room42]

Pfft. Dont be scared mate. You can plug it in and do the 30 minute idle setup, the afm change and the injector change and then drive it to the tuners. Simple as that. All blokes here are saying is that you could hurt it if you flog it untuned. When you reset the pfc it still has a tune in it but it isn't optimal. It wont blow up driving it there as long as you don't floor it. And as for putting it on a truck and towing it there that is a bunch of bullshit. I've pm'd you my number to talk you through the afm and injector changes you need to make. It really is a piece of cake when you know what to do.

EDIT: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/lag.html

Edited September 22, 2011 by Room42

[PyroIndustries]

ok so i have now setup the PFC with thanks too Nathan (Room 42) for like an hour of his time

injectors 66% latency .034

VG30 AFM From the menu

did the 30min run a/c on ect. but it rough as guts and seems to me like its only running on 5 cylinders. gave it a little slow poke to 2000 rpm and there was no change up to 2000rpm. a mate sugested that it may be the AFM but i get a reading on the pfc

PFC displays this :

InjDuty 2 %

IngTmng 17 deg

Airflow 1415 mV

Eng.Rev 890rpm

BatVolt 14.2

Knock |

Wtr Temp 48'

also i had the injectors tested before i installed.

[PyroIndustries]

Yeah running very nice ans smove now turns out the wires came out on the 6th injector. i can do amazing things when i actually open my eyes.

so now i wanna reset the PFC and do the cold start run again. do i just disconnect the battery and push the break or do i need to reset the PFC somehow????

[JonnoHR31]

if its running fine dont bother.

to reset it go to the etc menu and select data init, you will lose all your afm and injectors settings, any tune and all your self learnt idle.

[Room42]

Yeah running very nice ans smove now turns out the wires came out on the 6th injector. i can do amazing things when i actually open my eyes.

so now i wanna reset the PFC and do the cold start run again. do i just disconnect the battery and push the break or do i need to reset the PFC somehow????

Hey man cold start is different than the 30 min idle learn that you do first off. To reset you go into etc and its in there somewhere. You initialize the pfc. Unplugging will do nothing. Then you will have to put in the vg80 afm setting, the injector settings and then start it and do the 30 min idle thing. I have got away with not doing the idle thing and it makes bugger all difference. Up to you. I cant say it enough tho man as tempting as it may be dont give it a hiding until its tuned. I've pm'd you the ign map.

Cold start is setting the water temp in the settings. You add or subtract fuel by increasing or decreasing the numbers in there. As it isn't tuned the numbers already there will do the trick for now. When its tuned ideally you dont want any numbers in 50 or 80 degrees so the tune stays more stable. Dont make it zero yet as you will have to change the fuel map significantly to compensate for this.

[JonnoHR31]

the standard pfc cold enrichment figures are spot on, dont touch them. the only reason you should ever set the 50 degrees value to 1.000 (you have to have numbers in there...) is if your full running temp is significantly less than 80 degrees, which is pretty rare.

[Room42]

the standard pfc cold enrichment figures are spot on, dont touch them. the only reason you should ever set the 50 degrees value to 1.000 (you have to have numbers in there...) is if your full running temp is significantly less than 80 degrees, which is pretty rare.

Mine runs at 70 degrees. Sometime gets to 75 in traffic. So my 50 and 80 are 1.000. When I say zero I mean 1.000 cos there is zero correction.

Edited September 23, 2011 by Room42

[JonnoHR31]

yer myne runs cold too and i do the same. but 99% of people dont have that problem and shouldnt touch it, especially when settings up a base map to get to the tuners.