Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Got a oil leak on the front of the motor around the oil pump and all up the face of the block. At the moment it looks like the cam covers leaking oil and running down the front of the motor(am in progress on changing them now)and filling up the cupped area on the pump. BUT im also thinking it maybe the front seal as well. How hard it it to change or is it worth just putting it into the motor mechanics and getting them to do it if it still leaks after fixing cam gaskets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378066-changing-front-seal-on-rb26/
Share on other sites

you'd wanna make sure it was actually leaking and at a rate that bothers you before you go to all the effort.

if you know your way around the engine bay all you need are some tools and engine manual (pm me if you need a copy) and you should be fine.

got no problems with doing the work, only thing is getting the harmonic balancer off but can make something at work to do that.

pretty sure is the cam covers making the mess as was alot of oil down the side of the block and think some has been sucked behind the timing cover by the looks. belt was changed about 50k ago so half way through its life.

will have a look at the cam seals tomorrow but dont think they are the problem either.

I have a manual as well, thanks for the offer anyway :thumbsup:.

not sure if ur aware of it mate but the allan key bolts from the cam cover match the thread of the two holes in the balancer. So if u end up making some sort of puller u can use those by just throwing some washers on the end of them. Though depending on how tight ur balancer is on there u may end up stretching the cam cover bolts so try get a hold of some yeild and spray the hell out of it....

Radiator will have to come out if ur goin to use a puller so u got some room....

thanks for the heads up Joe, will get some ss or high tensile ones from work.

got the motor back together now, just seeing if the oil will subside otherwise will pull the front down.

how hard it the bottom timing belt gear to get off??

already been to nissan and got the part number, cost about $31 i think. such alot of work for a little part >_<

they vary a lot. i pulled my rb25 timing gear off with my fingers, just slid straight off. then i needed a grinder to get the rb30 gear off, was fused to the crank. if its that bad you can try drilling and tapping it for a puller or you can cut it off like i did and use another one. i have a spare if you destroy yours :pirate:

have decided to give it in to my tuner now, got something wrong with the new tune i just got with the car not starting straight away and running like shite so he can look at that at the same time. damn cars :domokun:

Gunna have another look tomorrow to see if the cam seals are gone. Oil seems to be still coming from high up ( clear cam cover ). So going to remove top and bottom cover, clean everything, connect everything up and run it to see where its coming from.

Wouldn't think it would go above gasket line. Maybe I'm wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...