Clicking Sound On Full Lock

[domino_z]

Hi guys

Seems im experiencing the same issue as a few of the US guys have been reporting, where im getting a metallic clicking noise when steering is on full lock

Its an intermittent sound, pretty much like this

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=wDLl4RCKHkw

My thoughts are either CV joint, wheel bearing, metal difference bw wheel backing and disc hub or possibly there's some truth in the front brake pad movement theory due to the missing upper pad clip

I did some poking around, and as per my vid you can hear the movement in the brake pad on my drivers side when i push the top of the pad toward the caliper - this upper area has no clip. The lower area has the clip and pad is locked in tight. Opposite side has no pad movement on upper or lower and isnt making any noise on full lock

Anyone had this issue?

Edited September 24, 2011 by domino_z

[LSX-438]

I've had the clicking on and off for two years. Sometimes slight sometimes really loud. It got real bad recently, so i took the wheels off and put them back on, the clicking immediately went away. Then it got bad again so i torqued up the wheelnuts some more - it then went away again. It hasn't come back since (a few weeks now). But i am sure it will come back.

It really has me stuffed.

I've read about all the theories, i don't think anyone knows for sure what the cause is?

Lot's of people think they know because they..

1) take the wheels off then

2) make a change then

3) put wheel back on...

with noise gone.

People naturally assume whatever happened at step 2 (above) fixed it!

However, i have done just steps 1 and 3 and the noise is gone (plenty of times).

I think it's related to wheelnut torque, but have NFI why.

[handbrake]

agree with Duncan.

the local nissan guys just take off wheels, apply a lube on the hub and and fit them back on to troque spec

This fixed mine when I had it twice but as Duncan said it will come and go. I only ever really noticed mine in carparks where the sound echoed and amplified.

[domino_z]

Yeh mine comes and goes too, though now it's at it's loudest by far after putting my stock wheels back on

I've ordered the extra pad clips on the recommendation of Nissan who say that is their fix for this noise, so I'll see if that helps

Im also now getting the clicking noise on both front wheels and natch both front pads have the same movement as in my vid

i really think it's the brake pad moving then snapping back into place, i can't fathom this type of sound being made by the hub and wheel

If I suddenly stop just after the clicking noise, the pads are locked in tight. Also sometimes I can hear the click that split second after I've come to a complete stop

Edited September 26, 2011 by domino_z

[domino_z]

bump

dealer fix was to remove discs and remove surface rust from the rub and regrease

clicking noise reduced by about 50% all last week

did some spirited driving on weekend and it's back with a vengeance now. So I don't think it has anything to do with the rust, it's just a major design flaw

I'm thinking about replacing the two front hubs, they aren't too expensive out of US (around 600 shipped) and I can do the swap myself to save on the labour

Edited October 11, 2011 by domino_z

[R33_NICK]

We have plenty of R35 GTRs coming in with this noise as well. What we normally do is remove the wheels, remove rotors, sand down the rusts on the hub and applied lube between the hub and rotor hat. Another thing to note is the SPLINES ON THE DRIVESHAFTS AND HUB also need to be lubricated. Everytime we get a GTR coming in with clicking noise, we also lubricate the driveshaft splines as well and it seems to fix the problem. Driveshaft nuts can loosen a bit over time enough to cause this noise so obviously it needs to be retorqued when driveshafts are removed which is also why Nissan updated us to check and retorque driveshaft nuts everytime it comes in for a service since the MY11 GTRs were released as this is also what they've found that needs checking when testing the MY11 GTR on the Nurburgring. Driveshaft nuts are 225NM incase you want to know.

Also guys, its not just R35 GTRs but even Muranos, X-Trails, 350Z, 370Z and Maximas are doing it as well: full lock, on acceleration sometimes.

Be sure that after washing your car that you take it for a drive and get the brakes to warm up so that water can be dispersed from them. If you leave them standing after they've been washed, it will rust between the rotor hat and hub and cause the noise to come back earlier than you may expect. Nissan stated this on the owner's manual too.

Edited October 14, 2011 by R33_NICK

[domino_z]

thanks for the explanation Nick

to throw a spanner in the works here, ive put my 21" aftermarket wheels back on my car and the sound has gone 100%

i'll update this thread if/when it comes back

[R33_NICK]

thanks for the explanation Nick

to throw a spanner in the works here, ive put my 21" aftermarket wheels back on my car and the sound has gone 100%

i'll update this thread if/when it comes back

no worries let us know how you go. sometimes the noise goes away when just tightening the wheel nuts or even the driveshaft nuts as well as when tightening it pulls the rotor tighter against the hub or in driveshafts case further into the splines which should eliminate movement tho that said the noise did come back after awhile which is why we lubricated both the driveshaft and hub splines and hub surface everytime we hear it clicking. and out of a lot we did. only a handful had the noise came back but mainly because they havent been driven after washed.

[N/A®]

I believe it's because the way the original wheel and the disk match up. From factory they sit perfectly and needs to be put back exactly the same. If you look at your studs, they will have one marked as reference if removed for the first time at Nissan.

Edited October 14, 2011 by N/A®

[R33_NICK]

I believe it's because the way the original wheel and the disk match up. From factory they sit perfectly and needs to be put back exactly the same. If you look at your studs, they will have one marked as reference if removed for the first time at Nissan.

Exactly. We have to mark the wheel position before we take it off so that it goes back on the same way. Nissan told us this when we were sent for training. Tip: make your on marks on the stud thats in the same position as the valve on the rim, cant go wrong.