Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrecking skyline R33 all parts for sale:

1. Apexi Power Fc good condition $1100

2. unknown brand half roll cage bolt in $400

3. Rb25. forged bottom end stage 3 tomei cams and adjustable cam gears standard intake manifold HKS low mount ball bearing turbo 2 months old and custom made manifold want to try to sell as set $4000

4. 3 inch turbo back exhaust no cat straight through pipe $ 400

5.Transmission 5 speed gearbox $400 perfect condition

6.brass button clutch only 5000 kms $800

7. diff and drive train ?? make an offer

8. bonnet no dents $150

9. drivers side guard $50

10. 10 spoke race wheels 60% tread left $500

11.nismo dash only 100,000 k on the clock great condition $650

12.all interior parts make an offer

13. front and rear seats no stains lie brand new $500

14. stock sway bars $150

15. blistein shocks and lowered springs $300

16. Front brake rotors and calipers $450

17. Rear brake rotors and calipers $250

18. sunroof working perfect $600

19. dash and passenger airbag $350

20. steering colum $150

21. Steering wheel and airbag $250

for any photos or information or if your looking for any other parts call or message me on 0405476412

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378552-wrecking-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

sorry should of mentioned its a series 2 but it has aftermarket front, rear bar and sideskirts sorry mate

and the location of the parts is penrith sydney...willing to ship if buyer organises shipping

Edited by mantra

Wrecking skyline R33 all parts for sale:

cant load up photos but will email or sms them on request need parts gone asap

1. HKS gt rs ball bearing turbo 2 months old and custom made 2 inch manifold and turbo to cat exhaust $3500

2. unknown brand half roll cage bolt in $400

3. Rb25. forged bottom end stage 3 tomei cams and adjustable cam gears standard intake manifold air con and all accessories $2000

4. 3 inch turbo back exhaust no cat straight through pipe $ 400

5.Transmission 5 speed gearbox $400 perfect condition

6.brass button clutch only 5000 kms $800

7. diff and drive train ?? make an offer

8. bonnet no dents $150

9. drivers side guard $50

10. 10 spoke race wheels 60% tread left $500

11.nismo dash only 100,000 k on the clock great condition $650

12.all interior parts make an offer

13. front and rear seats no stains lie brand new $500

14. stock sway bars $150

15. blistein shocks and lowered springs $300

16. Front brake rotors and calipers $450

17. Rear brake rotors and calipers $250

18. sunroof working perfect $600

19. dash and passenger airbag $350

20. steering colum $150

21. Steering wheel and airbag $250

for any photos or information or if your looking for any other parts call or message me on 0405476412

Is that a manual Rb25det gearbox forsale..... if so ill take it....?

The intercooler kit is it return flow or normal style cheers PM me

Hey mate gearbox might be old waiting for deposit but not to sure bout the intercooler ur welcome to look at it and find out mate

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...