Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mmmm 1300 bucks haha

U doin sump baffles, oil return/breather from the head Etc?

Dan is pretty much making all the decisions lol. I just told him what I want out of the car etc and he will work with what I want :)

I am not sure on what parts are going in just yet I know the basic stuff just waiting on the list to be sent through.

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

....and once I get the problem Ill post in here :)

yes please, in particular oil pump and big end bearing condition. My guess is still on clearance problems causing pressure loss under load.

Put it on the dyno and see if it still drops pressure, will narrow down if its the Gs or some other issue.

Did you ever try this? It will very quickly sort out if it is an assembly problem, or a sump design issue.

Edited by Rolls

yes please, in particular oil pump and big end bearing condition. My guess is still on clearance problems causing pressure loss under load.

I am sure Dan will post in here.

Did you ever try this? It will very quickly sort out if it is an assembly problem, or a sump design issue.

I personally filled the sump with 6l as its the standard sump it still did it, so I am guessing it is oil pump issue but yeah wait and see I guess.

I suggested putting it on the dyno lol, not overfilling it.

Yes however you also said sump design which is standard hahaa. No we did not put it on the Dyno. I am just playing the waiting game hahaa lol.

Yes however you also said sump design which is standard hahaa. No we did not put it on the Dyno. I am just playing the waiting game hahaa lol.

Yep the standard sump might not be sufficient for the Gs you are pulling is what I was getting at, hence put it on the dyno and it will very quickly tell you if it is an issue with the sump, or an issue with the build.

  • 2 weeks later...

So you never tried it on a dyno to determine if it was the oil pump or the Gs and stock sump?

: /

No we didn't, however some what glad we didn't. Found half a washer(looked like a washer) in the sump just floating about. If I would of upped it more and more I could have done more damage.

The crank so far looks good so there is no need to replace that yet.

I have gone by what Dan has said and he are still trying to diagnose the issue.

Pretty much what my number 6 looked like when it let go....

it had standard pistons running 285rwkw.

what generally causes the piston to break away like that... is it just cause they're weak? or is there other contributing factors?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...