Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanting to know peoples thoughts about running a very restricted exhaust only at cruise and idle?

My car in question is an R34 gtt with 290rwkw, all the usual mods.

could it really do any damage running the exhaust closed basically only at idle and cruise?

it only makes 290rwkw @ 6000rpm+ remember.

putting around, 2000-2500rpm, it'll be making less than stock most likely so it'll be fine.

use light throttle always. dont full plant it to 2500-3000 type thing otherwise you are forcing etc.

Agreed, at cruising speeds it will be more than fine.

Start flogging it and your asking for trouble, it will back up te system and transfer heat into the cylinders = detonation.

Personally I would pick my poison and stick with it (loud or quiet exhaust). I CBF for these halfway points that are neither as good as either. A crap restrictive version of a quiet exhaust and a dirty untuned sound of a loud one.

I would disagree, if you close the exhaust as stated, then you will generate massive amounts of heat and pressure. Burn valves, lunch turbos etc.

If you are talking about having a 2 or 2.5 inch system on it then it will be fine at cruise and idle.

Maybe a little bit better description of the system that's on it?

These mufflers mixed with a ferrari type actuator setup would be awesome.

Basically as you hit boost an actuator opens up the muffler.

Could also work with an electronic setup based on revs and throttle position

it would agree it can do damage i once had a dc5 type r... and my loud exhaust got defected anyway i bolted up my standard exhaust went to the prick at granville it failed like 1db domokun.gif i wanted to give the guy a beat down for not passing me. Any way getting to the point now i put a hot dog resignator in my standard exhaust and it burnt out the o2 sensors and it was a straight through resignator.

so that defect i laughed at..... bent me over lol.

I would disagree, if you close the exhaust as stated, then you will generate massive amounts of heat and pressure. Burn valves, lunch turbos etc.

If you are talking about having a 2 or 2.5 inch system on it then it will be fine at cruise and idle.

Maybe a little bit better description of the system that's on it?

I could do that. At the moment I've got it hooked up to my G force meter, with a touch of a button it switches off the meet and closes the exhaust. I was thinking about putting an override in connected to the revs, so it opens itself up at 4000 or so... Need a bit of tweaking to the electronics at the moment, so I might write that in.

Yeah Pat, you're a smart cookie. I'm sure you'll have no worries whatsoever wiring it into something like that. Maybe even get one of those things from Jaycar that people use to control VCT when using an RB20 ECU for their RB25 nistune?

I'd rather hook the signal up to my own microprocessor and program it up. On that note, I've had no experience on hooking anything up to the ecu like a taco... does any one know what signal the ecu gives out to the taco? Is it pwm or voltage modulation?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...