Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so im hearing that annoying ticking sound coming form my engine and its driving me mad becuase its noticable from outside the car.

I was going to replace all the lifters because I know one is at fault, but before I do, I thought I might have a crack at cleaning them.

So, my question is, how do I remove them?

Ive never done anything like this before, so I have no idea how Id go about getting them out.

Anyone got a small step-by-step guide on how to get them out?

Another thing I should probably ask is once I do eventually take them out and clean them, do I need to adjust anything or can I just put them back in?

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379474-rb25-lifter-removal-and-clean/
Share on other sites

just run a good oil flush before your next change

rb30's are notorious for it so i ran 2 bottles of flush with some of the cheap gulf western oil though my r31 and it came up really well

used the same oil again for my stepdad's commodore too

you'll be surprised how black it will come out!

Sorry lol its in the title. But basically you need to remove timing belt and remove cams then you can take the lifter out with a magnet. Then disassemble each one use some carby cleaner and a brush scrub all the parts in it then let it soke in the cleaner for a few hours and then clean dry assemble.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...