Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Below is a method recommended to me as an alternative to pulling the front drive shaft out, for dyno runs, etc :whistling: For an R33 GTR

Locate the air bleed plug over the drivers feet, this is normally used to bleed the ATTESA system (disconnect plug, turn key to ON, pump runs flat out so you can get under and crack the bleed nipples).

However, if you disconnect this plug, START the car, then hit the brake pedal 5x times (just keep pressing it until 4WD light starts flashing). This tells the ATTESA controller to go into 2WD mode (it is one of the two methods outlined in the 33GTR manual, the other is dropping the shaft).

If the 4WD light starts flashing, you're in 2WD mode. If you start rolling and get a SOLID 4WD light, then that has thrown an error (most likely didn't push brake pedal enough times).

To go back into 4WD mode, simply turn car off and reconnect plug.

Is that method going to be safe for the transfer case, has anyone used this method for any period of time with no transfer issues??

thoughts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379620-putting-r33-gtr-into-rwd/
Share on other sites

I have done this. You can hear it bleed off. As op said it is outlined in the manual also, Toshi advised me on this method stating that the this is how the guys in Japan do it when they do dyno runs.

Another thing, when you do the method named above, if you keep an eye on the fw torque gauge, it does not move.

Pistol -Pete you have no evidence backing up you're one word shoot.

I think it's fine. How about you run it full time and let us know if it's safe :).

Pistol -Pete you have no evidence backing up you're one word shoot.

I think it's fine. How about you run it full time and let us know if it's safe :).

i leave that up to you guys to ruin your transfer cases

i leave that up to you guys to ruin your transfer cases

o..k..

I've running driving my Stagea around in RWD for nearly a year with some hard laps of Barbs and several skidz thrown in, my transfer case is fine.

I have tested on a hoist and there is NO PRELOAD.

This works so well that we've actually dyno'd cars over here with this method and I've even installed a switch so I don't have to fish under the dash for the plug.

Thats really good that someone has been doing it constantly. Glad to hear its going good bubba.

My theory is, the jap's know these cars, why on earth would it be in the manual if it wasnt safe? Also I heard that this method is used when the car is being towed.

Thanks pistol pete. I will keep running my car in rwd for dyno days. And I will enjoy it. :D

  • 3 weeks later...

this is quiet literally a 15 minute job. Drop the front sharf. all up its 9 bolts. 4 drive shaft bolts, 10 or 12mm if i remember correctly, 4 brace bolts 14mm and 1 10mm bolt that holds a little bracket near the brace which fixes the clutch line to the car and then you remove the front shaft, no bleeding required. We only have access to rwd dyno's here in CQ that arent charging 200+ per hr for a bare machine so alot of us do it up here.

Cheers, Allan Shaw

  • 4 weeks later...

o..k..

I've running driving my Stagea around in RWD for nearly a year with some hard laps of Barbs and several skidz thrown in, my transfer case is fine.

I have tested on a hoist and there is NO PRELOAD.

This works so well that we've actually dyno'd cars over here with this method and I've even installed a switch so I don't have to fish under the dash for the plug.

Hey mate, which of the two wires do you put the switch on?

Hey mate, which of the two wires do you put the switch on?

its under the dash on the drivers side, near the door, there will be 2 connectors with 1 wire in and out each, to work out which one it is, with the ignition on disconnect 1 at a time and listen for the transfer pump , obviously the one that triggers the pump is the right one..

Its pretty easy to just disconnect the connector, I don't think its worth putting a switch on it..

Also not sure what type of diff you have, but if its electronic at all when you do this it will also take out the diff so it will be a single pegger >_< if its mechanical no worries

I reckon it's well worth putting a switch in :P

I also use it as a visual indicator (missile switch) to tell me whether the circuit is complete or not as if you unplug the plug and then don't press the brake pedal 5 times when you start the car, as soon as you start rolling the system will throw up an error and go into a 50/50 split which WILL destroy things if you drive around too much like that.

  • 1 month later...

is it possible to install a DCV with a solenoid after the pump to return pressure back to tank? my basic understanding of the system is that the more pressure the pump supplies to the front, the more torque goes to the front, so if u make all the pressure go back to the tank, wouldn't it be safly is rwd mode?

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...