Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, I'm an 18 year old P-Plater living in Queensland and lately I've become interested in purchasing my first car. I've been interested in Skylines for years and now I've found that owning one isn't as impossible as it once seemed. I'm not about to make a rash decision when it comes to purchasing a car, and for that reason I've been thoroughly researching just about everything I can get on Skylines which naturally lead me here. I've already searched the forums to answer a lot of my questions but I figured it would make sense to also ask a couple of my own. So, after looking around Carsales.com.au I'm leaning towards a GT-R34, but before I decide I need to voice a couple concerns I've had.

Fuel Economy: Not the biggest issue, if I have to pay more than an ugly small car to get from A to B that's not a major problem, from what I've read most people are getting 11 - 13L/100km. Most of those are going to be Turbos so my question is would a non-turbo use less fuel, and if so, how much? Would there be a noticeable difference in fuel consumption?

Aesthetics: Why I love the R34 in particular is the Z-tune front bumper, I realise that not a lot of cars would have a genuine Z-tune, but anything similar aesthetically is really what I'm looking for. The stock R34's with the basic front bumper look incredibly ugly to me. So should I just try and find a Skyline already fitted with a body kit? I'd imagine it'd be expensive to find a body kit and have it painted to match the car, even if I fitted it myself.

Things to watch out for: I'm aware that at 12 years old, the average Skyline isn't exactly new, even when kept in immaculate condition by the owner, what is likely to go wrong engine/drive train/brakes wise after I've bought a Skyline?

Thanks in advance, if I don't make sense in some parts it's because I'm still learning all I can about Skylines, and when they have so many iterations and modifications it gets a little confusing as to what name is referring to exactly which car/parts!

haha my bad. still, i'd say forget the gtr, depending on what state you are in, you'll be stuck with an GTS of some description. dw you can still get ztune style kits for em. you'll only have to shell out a kidney or two :P

Yeah thanks for the info guys! I don't have a keen eye for this GTR GTS GTT stuff yet so when I type in "GT-R34" I get god knows what. Basically I'm in it for a looker, performance would be nice, but it's not exactly affordable for the time being, especially being on P's with the non-turbo restriction.

^^^ agreed, thats how I took it.

If you want a car just for looks, then its all sweet, get yourself a 34GT. You seem to know a fair bit of info already, and have youre head on straight. Gathering that youre going to wait out the p-plate time until you get a high performance car.

Good luck and show pics when you get it.

Are you sure on your Ps, you seem a bit too sensible... Will be cheaper to buy one with a bar on it, but good luck.. Accept the fact that you will be driving a car that is slower than pretty much every Falcadore EF onwards, but seriously, how often will you be racing them anyway... I bought a Stagea because a GTR was out of the question and never regreted it, price insurance, and if you are still keen get searching!! And welcome aboard

Hah as it happens I did mean a R34 GT, I've seen just about every combination of letters involving R, 34 and GT over the last week so when it comes to describing exactly what I want it can get a little confusing! Yeah for now I just want a nice looking car to get around in, I've already read that R34's aren't the fastest car around, but then I won't be doing any racing (legally or otherwise) anyway.

A mate of mine just bought a black 34gt on his p's, the thing sounds good, looks good, handles nice and the interior on them are very comfy. Honestly, they are a nice car to drive, but arnt terribly fast at all and eat fuel like crazy, especially because it doesnt have the turbo to get it up to speed.

So should I just try and find a Skyline already fitted with a body kit?

You seem to be responsible & welcome!

The primary objective is to get a really good, rust-free and well cared for Skyline in the first place; then build on that as a base.

Take a mechanic/panel beater friend with you as you inspect + you'll have your own checklist (so you're focussed rather than caught up with the emotion).

Im a P plater aswell. I havent made the smartest descisions when it comes to cars but i can give you some advice.

1. I would steer clear of body kits, purely for the fact of we are in-experienced drivers, and 'kit' driving can take quite some getting used to. Fiberglass is very delicate compared to the stock plastic bumpers and can crack at the smallest of impacts. I had a full kit on my nissan exa, and after i got rid of it i swore i would not buy another kit until i was a crapload better at driving.

2. Find a car which is what i call 'granny spec'. Untouched, unmolested and not modded. Stock as a rock in other words. I have seen some dodgey backyard jobs and its not worth it. They may be harder to find but i swear to god its worth it.

3. This isnt really advice for finding a car, but more for when you get your car. When modding your car (im guessing that you will) keep the mods clean. Dont go and mount fully sick neons everywhere. Keep stuff tidy, maintain your car well. And if you feel that a job is over your head, dont do it anyway. Chances are you eff something else up which will lead to more $$$

4. Also keeping your car legal is also important. P plater + import = harrasment. I drive a R32 GTS and get pulled over now and then, and there is nothing better than knowing that the poilce cant defect you for anything.

Hope this helps, Mitch

Im a P plater aswell. I havent made the smartest descisions when it comes to cars but i can give you some advice.

1. I would steer clear of body kits, purely for the fact of we are in-experienced drivers, and 'kit' driving can take quite some getting used to. Fiberglass is very delicate compared to the stock plastic bumpers and can crack at the smallest of impacts. I had a full kit on my nissan exa, and after i got rid of it i swore i would not buy another kit until i was a crapload better at driving.

2. Find a car which is what i call 'granny spec'. Untouched, unmolested and not modded. Stock as a rock in other words. I have seen some dodgey backyard jobs and its not worth it. They may be harder to find but i swear to god its worth it.

3. This isnt really advice for finding a car, but more for when you get your car. When modding your car (im guessing that you will) keep the mods clean. Dont go and mount fully sick neons everywhere. Keep stuff tidy, maintain your car well. And if you feel that a job is over your head, dont do it anyway. Chances are you eff something else up which will lead to more $$

4. Also keeping your car legal is also important. P plater + import = harrasment. I drive a R32 GTS and get pulled over now and then, and there is nothing better than knowing that the poilce cant defect you for anything.

Hope this helps, Mitch

+1. Listen to this guy.

Hah as it happens I did mean a R34 GT, I've seen just about every combination of letters involving R, 34 and GT over the last week so when it comes to describing exactly what I want it can get a little confusing! Yeah for now I just want a nice looking car to get around in, I've already read that R34's aren't the fastest car around, but then I won't be doing any racing (legally or otherwise) anyway.

this is true. expect to get beaten by commodores and falcons if you decide to give it a squirt off from the traffic lights and they do the same

Not sure if troll... or if law of averages finally lead to one sensible P plater...

Everyone in this thread has had excellent points so far.

I just want to throw a wrench into the works for you mate. R34 at 18 years of age, turbo or not = raped by insurance companies. Have you priced up insurance yet? Make sure you go quote crazy man.

If on the off chance they are going to sting you for a left net and your kidney, it may be well worth your while looking at an Australian delivered S15. Now, yes I know it's not a 34, but it's the 34 of the Silvias, and a LOT of people over the years have tossed up between S15s and R34s. They're still a great looking and sounding car, and provide you with THREE bonuses over an R34. These are they:

1. 4 cylinder = cheaper rego

2. Australian delivered means cheaper insurance than an import.

3. A bit smaller than a 34 (good for when you start out driving). I don't know if you've driven or even sat in a Skyline... but they aren't small cars by any stretch of the imagination. There will be less "...can I make that?" moments in an S15 in carparks as they're a bit more nimble at low speeds too... Skylines are fat disgusting slugs in carparks/3 point turns or any other slow speed manoeuvres.

Ultimately up to you. Just thought you might like a dose of my hindsight of having a tank (XD) for one of my first cars.

Edited by Isola

Get it and throw a massive turbo on it, screw the P Plate laws they're just stupid. Believe me with a turbo the girls will throw themselves at you. Try to hide it in the trunk or somewhere under the seats or just run a 1000 shot of NOS like in 2 Fast 2 Furious, don't forget to scream "Gotta go dogg" when you school a "nOOb". Stickers and a subwoofer are must haves, stickers will give 20-50hp depending on which ones and how big they are. A subwoofer will get the chicks attention. If a cop tries to harass you remind him that you're a G wid a Skyline and that you're "connected". Play the music below and you will be DK.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR8KRBWKIoI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...