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Changing Cam Gears On A Gtr

sinistaGTR

By sinistaGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted

One thing though...

Do you guys actually take off the cam cover to hold the cam from turning while slackening/tightening the cam gear as shown in the manual?

Its wierd though because for one they show holding the gear on the outside with some sort of tool, and for the other they show holding the cam itself with an adjustable wrench....Maybe just to illustrate that it can be done either way??

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

thats because you cant use the gear to tighten with the vct cams on rb25s as its no good for the internal mechanism, you have to hold the cam itself. on normal cam gears you can do it either way

  • 7 months later...
SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

seems like afew guys have been able to change the cam gears without stripping the engine down like your doing a 100k service :)

im going to give this a go in the next week or so, got afew lil ideas/tricks to make it easier...if im succesful il be posting pics

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

That's what I was going to say!

Do the water pump, belt, idler and tensioner bearings, front seal, cam seals and the bolt and stud....unless you just did a major service less than 20,000km ago!

Why do people replace that stud when replacing the idler bearing? I was going to replace it both when I did my timing belt and then when I rebuilt the whole engine shortly after that (typical!), but didn't as I thought there is no way that would snap.

Has anyone ever heard of anyone either snapping or bending that stud?

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

There have been a few cases of the stud breaking. Usually due to age (fatigue from belt vibes, stretch etc) or over tightening of the nut.

That is why it's a good idea to replace it when you get the 100,000k service.

And yes, it is easy to change the cam gears without pulling the front of your engine apart. Did a set of cams that way too, just be sure that no.1 cyl is at TDC (top dead center) on the timing mark.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

There have been a few cases of the stud breaking. Usually due to age (fatigue from belt vibes, stretch etc) or over tightening of the nut.

That is why it's a good idea to replace it when you get the 100,000k service.

And yes, it is easy to change the cam gears without pulling the front of your engine apart. Did a set of cams that way too, just be sure that no.1 cyl is at TDC (top dead center) on the timing mark.

Hmm I should have replaced it, for the sake of $20 for the new stud and nut...

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