Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The factory boost gauge on my Rs4-S isn't working. I've taken it to be looked at by a professional and he told me that the MAP sensor was shot (see pic below). Any advice on how I can hold of a replacement would be appreciated.

Also, in my car the climate control and triple gauge cluster are swapped around. From what I've seen, the gauges should be at the top... While the car was being looked at, I asked about swapping the gauges around so that they'd be in the correct spot. I was told that I had the wrong mounting bracket in my car, and the gauges couldn't be moved up a spot because of this. Any takes on the situation?

IMAG0028.jpg

Edited by Marshstag

+1. I did this with mine after Scotty posted the fix originally. Has worked perfectly ever since.

You can probably just invert the din bracket; that's probably how they were moved originally.

Your car didn't roll of the factory floor with the triple gauges or the bracket is from another stag (rsv?). It would have had a double din stereo under the climate control, I had the same problem when I wanted to move my climate control to the middle and put the gauges up top.And you cant just flip the bracket over, wont work you'll have to do some modifiying to move your gauges mate.

Edited by SatchiThaStagea

The sensor is probably faulty due to dry solder joints on the plug. Here is a how to for repair if you have a soldering iron handy.

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry4953193

Sounds good, I'll give that a go on the weekend. Can I assume that it's the same for C34s2?

Your car didn't roll of the factory floor with the triple gauges or the bracket is from another stag (rsv?). It would have had a double din stereo under the climate control, I had the same problem when I wanted to move my climate control to the middle and put the gauges up top.And you cant just flip the bracket over, wont work you'll have to do some modifiying to move your gauges mate.

What did you end up doing?

mine is in a funny order too

i also have funny extra holes drilled in it

must be a jap thing

I'm not sure if it's a Jap thing or a previous owner thing :P

I just made do with what I had and ended up with the climate up top, gauges in the middle and stereo at the bottom.

theres 2 problems with trying to move the climate control,

1: the front of the climate control is a little wider than the bracket so the bracket is cut to accomodate this and;

2: where most things are mounted from the middle (stereos, din pockets ect) the climate contol is mounted from the bottom of the side

look here for my post that shows these probs

  • 4 weeks later...

I just made do with what I had and ended up with the climate up top, gauges in the middle and stereo at the bottom.

theres 2 problems with trying to move the climate control,

1: the front of the climate control is a little wider than the bracket so the bracket is cut to accomodate this and;

2: where most things are mounted from the middle (stereos, din pockets ect) the climate contol is mounted from the bottom of the side

look here for my post that shows these probs

I've had a look at your post and I'm now on the hunt for correct brackets... and I've found the ones below. They appear to be different from the bracket in the pic you posted. Does anyone know if they will be appropriate?

daf680ss-img600x450-1312181089nrcy0y21859.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
×
×
  • Create New...