Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I'm having a bit of trouble with the rear coilovers in my M35.

I have Tanabe sustec coilovers and can't seem to get the rear level. The rear passenger side always sits 7-8mm higher than the drivers side.

Here's what I have tried to fix it.

Both sides set the same height. = out of level

Drivers rear set higher = out of level

Swapped spring assembly side to side = out of level

Passenger set lower = out of level

Loosened all arm joints to rest bush tension =out of level

No matter what I do the passenger always sits 7-8mm higher and its p*ssing me off as I can't work out why.

So, anyone have any ideas what it could be and if you have had this problem or had to adjust one side different to the other to get them level?

And it's creaking badly on that side and again can't seem to stop it.

Thanks guys.

Edited by slippylotion
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380886-m35-rear-suspension-troubles/
Share on other sites

Interesting. If I set the spring at the same height on both sides the passenger side is about 8mm out. I dropped the passenger rear by 8mm and after letting it settle it's still about 3mm higher than the drivers side.

That said, I haven't loosened the arm bolts at all yet so maybe it has something to do with that.

So yours does the same!

At least I not going mad thinking its just my car. I've almost given up trying to sort it out.

I think the creaking noise I'm getting is from the rear swaybar D mounts. Will pull them out tomorrow and re grease them.

What heights did you run with?

Edited by slippylotion

Check which way the bolts are in. eg doing up one bolt on one side might make the suspension go up as doing it up on the other side might make the suspension go down. Or when you use your spanners you will notice pushing down one side and up on the other.

I have the same problem on my GTR even if I raise the lower side it just raises the other one aswell.

I havent got it sorted yet either. I put it down to a slight bent chassis from going up my steep drive way the same way every time. I need to come in the other way a few times to twist it back.

Just hit a pot hole or bump on the higher side it might raise the strut tower to the same height as both sides which will then lower your height.

Happy to say finally the car sits level and the creak has now gone. I adjusted the passenger side 10mm lower but it still sat higher. I also could not pin point that creak but my suspicions where toward the upper control arm and the sway bar.

So today when I got home I jacked her up yet again ? and it was creaking away if I lifted the hub assm up and down. I then disconnected the sway bar link to check it all out, all looked good so I put it back in. Then took it for a test drive and the creak had gone ? then when I got home the car was sitting level. I don't know how to explain it but both problems have now been sorted by removing that link and refitting it. Not sure if some how it was causing the problem 100% but it seems to have solved it and that's all I care about.

So now onto to fitting the trams shift kit this Friday/Saturday.

Nice one Paul. No workshop and a lack of confidence from me - I don't think I'll be tackling it myself any time soon. Are you getting it done Dunc?

I think I will eventually, I can get access to a hoist but I lack the confidence for this one so I'll be looking to get a workshop to do it

Happy to say finally the car sits level and the creak has now gone. I adjusted the passenger side 10mm lower but it still sat higher. I also could not pin point that creak but my suspicions where toward the upper control arm and the sway bar.

So today when I got home I jacked her up yet again ? and it was creaking away if I lifted the hub assm up and down. I then disconnected the sway bar link to check it all out, all looked good so I put it back in. Then took it for a test drive and the creak had gone ? then when I got home the car was sitting level. I don't know how to explain it but both problems have now been sorted by removing that link and refitting it. Not sure if some how it was causing the problem 100% but it seems to have solved it and that's all I care about.

So now onto to fitting the trams shift kit this Friday/Saturday.

So what you're trying to say here... is you need Whiteline sway bars from Dale? :whistling:

No issues with mine and I have the Whiteline front and rear sway bars, Whiteline rear links, and Dale's rear mounts. Works bloody awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...