Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just caught wind of this. Have not heard anything about these failed pumps (which I normally would being an Aussie manufacturer) and if this is so I would be keen to hear about it. Can you enlighten me?

I don't know the exact specifics, however I am pretty sure Forcefed might...

I have heard that there has been at least 2 pumps breaking however I have heard Tomei's have broken aswell since moving their manufacture outside of Japan.

Oh and by the way not made in China!

I should have said outside of Japan instead of just "Made in china"

  • Replies 172
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

All good Kyle. We have only heard of 3 units breaking since we started retailing these many years ago now and we are used to getting feedback when customers have issues.

Out of those 3 units, 2 had broken inner gears due to installation over worn drives (1 of them a factory narrow drive) and the other was not a breakage but the gears had worn the housing and backing plate due to incorrect thrust washer installation on the engine.

The processes involved for gear manufacture from start to finish is an effort believe me and is done to ensure the strongest and most durable possible part is manufactured.It's actually an 8 stage process to do.

All good Kyle. We have only heard of 3 units breaking since we started retailing these many years ago now and we are used to getting feedback when customers have issues.

Out of those 3 units, 2 had broken inner gears due to installation over worn drives (1 of them a factory narrow drive) and the other was not a breakage but the gears had worn the housing and backing plate due to incorrect thrust washer installation on the engine.

The processes involved for gear manufacture from start to finish is an effort believe me and is done to ensure the strongest and most durable possible part is manufactured.It's actually an 8 stage process to do.

Yeah I had heard that there were a couple breaks due to the drive.

At the moment, I am looking at other avenues for an Oil pump mainly because I want the car back on the road and don't want to wait 2 months for Jun to get their stocks up.

I am leaning more towards a HKS oil pump mainly because according to HKS Australia they are the ONLY oil pump that is 100% made in Japan...

At the end of the day, I am sure they are a much of a muchness and It is a matter of just a brand name for the same thing but I am just going by what I have heard and what my builder recommends.... as I don't want to sacrifice a 10thousand dollar engine just for sake of a oil pump gear.

i personally would not use anything but nitto. they easily have the lowest failure rate of any pump, and are local !!! andrew re assembled my pump cos i could not align the backing plate properly. he charged me nothin, not even freight !!! top bloke !!!just remember that mate, japan is a long way away to get help/advice or warranty.

Edited by mico

i personally would not use anything but nitto. they easily have the lowest failure rate of any pump, and are local !!! andrew re assembled my pump cos i could not align the backing plate properly. he charged me nothin, not even freight !!! top bloke !!!just remember that mate, japan is a long way away to get help/advice or warranty.

No offsense but I have yet to hear of a Jun, HKS, Nismo(Not N1) or a Reimax oil pump failing however have heard of 2 Nitto pumps failing... other than the 3 units Andrew specified.

I can understand pumps failing due to poor installation however I am going by what is best for me as running the risk of a oil pump failure on a 10 thousand dollar engine does not make sense to me... something tells me if my oil pump died that it wouldnt be covered under warranty due to a faulty part so not taking the risk with something I have heard has had a failure so often.

Edited by EAT26

Kyle I have failed pumps here from most manufactures and not failures due to installation but failures due to material selection and machining process. I can say that the SCM material used in most supposedly "Japanese" pumps is inferior to the treated EN series steel we use. I could not even count the amount of failed JUN / Greddy pumps (made by the same company which is not either Greddy or JUN) I have seen in my travels on both hands and feet. I also have failed components from most other manufactures also. Honestly most of you guys would not even believe me if I told you what I have seen being manufactured in different parts of the world for different companies.

Now I'm not here for any kind of sales speal because I am a strong believer in options and there is a place in the market for everything from dirt cheap to high end expensive but I am still waiting to hear about these other 2 "documented" failures :whistling: I would normally hear about every issue my customers have and find it hard to believe that if someone had a problem they would'nt contact us being a local company to try and sort something out. Hearsay and facts are 2 different things.

At the end of the day these are mechanical parts we are talking about which all have a limitation but I'm not just guessing that our pumps are stronger than those from the above mentioned brands, I know that they are.

If you are going to judge and make it public then at least back it up guys. And if it is not just hersay then I would prefer to know about it. Feedback is what helps companies that support this industry grow but seems like nobody is interested in that these days.

Kyle I have failed pumps here from most manufactures and not failures due to installation but failures due to material selection and machining process. I can say that the SCM material used in most supposedly "Japanese" pumps is inferior to the treated EN series steel we use. I could not even count the amount of failed JUN / Greddy pumps (made by the same company which is not either Greddy or JUN) I have seen in my travels on both hands and feet. I also have failed components from most other manufactures also. Honestly most of you guys would not even believe me if I told you what I have seen being manufactured in different parts of the world for different companies.

Now I'm not here for any kind of sales speal because I am a strong believer in options and there is a place in the market for everything from dirt cheap to high end expensive but I am still waiting to hear about these other 2 "documented" failures :whistling: I would normally hear about every issue my customers have and find it hard to believe that if someone had a problem they would'nt contact us being a local company to try and sort something out. Hearsay and facts are 2 different things.

At the end of the day these are mechanical parts we are talking about which all have a limitation but I'm not just guessing that our pumps are stronger than those from the above mentioned brands, I know that they are.

If you are going to judge and make it public then at least back it up guys. And if it is not just hersay then I would prefer to know about it. Feedback is what helps companies that support this industry grow but seems like nobody is interested in that these days.

Like I said, I havent heard of the Jun failures however have heard of the Nitto 1s. I am doing what is best for my engine as at the end of the day it is my engine and I have learnt my lesson on taking chances with my car.

I understand you want the feedback however it is not mine to give.

I or Forcefed, where only having an open discussion on oil pump selection in which we have heard and I was told to steer clear from the nitto pump however was told to go a nitto stoker if I could swing the extra costs. He mentioned the 2 documented pumps.... Each pump is different no 2 pumps are the same something like engines you can not garuntee the first pump and the second pump are exactly the same in Tensile Strength nor the other contributing factors... It comes down to personal choice and what you trust.

No offsense but I have yet to hear of a Jun, HKS, Nismo(Not N1) or a Reimax oil pump failing however have heard of 2 Nitto pumps failing... other than the 3 units Andrew specified.

I can understand pumps failing due to poor installation however I am going by what is best for me as running the risk of a oil pump failure on a 10 thousand dollar engine does not make sense to me... something tells me if my oil pump died that it wouldnt be covered under warranty due to a faulty part so not taking the risk with something I have heard has had a failure so often.

my engine had a JUN that had a nice crack through the gears upon inspection, replaced with a nitto item so there is 1 youve heard of.

If you dont feel that nitto is good enough, im not sure what will be

OK no worries but before making claims like "I do know the Tomei, Nitto and Greddy pumps have been breaking so they are not an option" public then at least have the proof to back up. If I hear someone flaming our product then of course I'm going to back it up when to the best of my knowledge the claims are not true. If we didn't go to so much effort and expense with our gearsets on these pumps to be the so durable then this hearsay would not bother me in the slightest.

And yes we can say that one of our pumps is exactally the same as another due to the amount of metalugy testing our gears go through from bar stock to sacrificed finished items. If your interested I'll run you through it as any good manufacturer should be able to.

PS: Here is a picture you might find intersting - This particular vehicle running well over 1000HP and a 2 step had gone through 2x JUN pumps (cracking the inner gear). Now runs a Nitto Pump for last 2.5 years with no such problem.

JUNOPC.docx

Like I said, I havent heard of the Jun failures however have heard of the Nitto 1s. I am doing what is best for my engine as at the end of the day it is my engine and I have learnt my lesson on taking chances with my car.

I understand you want the feedback however it is not mine to give.

I or Forcefed, where only having an open discussion on oil pump selection in which we have heard and I was told to steer clear from the nitto pump however was told to go a nitto stoker if I could swing the extra costs. He mentioned the 2 documented pumps.... Each pump is different no 2 pumps are the same something like engines you can not garuntee the first pump and the second pump are exactly the same in Tensile Strength nor the other contributing factors... It comes down to personal choice and what you trust.

not sure how you could rely on a crank,rod,piston etc. setup but not rely on the pump they produce to feed the engine.

my engine had a JUN that had a nice crack through the gears upon inspection, replaced with a nitto item so there is 1 youve heard of.

If you dont feel that nitto is good enough, im not sure what will be

From my understanding alot of the issue is found either in the oil collar or the housing itself. like the N1s.

In all the cases that I have mentioned not just Jun...

OK no worries but before making claims like "I do know the Tomei, Nitto and Greddy pumps have been breaking so they are not an option" public then at least have the proof to back up. If I hear someone flaming our product then of course I'm going to back it up when to the best of my knowledge the claims are not true. If we didn't go to so much effort and expense with our gearsets on these pumps to be the so durable then this hearsay would not bother me in the slightest.

And yes we can say that one of our pumps is exactally the same as another due to the amount of metalugy testing our gears go through from bar stock to sacrificed finished items. If your interested I'll run you through it as any good manufacturer should be able to.

PS: Here is a picture you might find intersting - This particular vehicle running well over 1000HP and a 2 step had gone through 2x JUN pumps (cracking the inner gear). Now runs a Nitto Pump for last 2.5 years with no such problem.

I would actually like to hear it, as I find it interesting myself.

not sure how you could rely on a crank,rod,piston etc. setup but not rely on the pump they produce to feed the engine.

Your question kinda is self expainatory.

Just because a company and do something right does not mean ALL their products are up to the job.

No worries! Process is as below:


  • Raw material bar stock is purchased from local supplier
  • A cut from both different sizes of bar stock is sent to a metalurgist to check that material composition and supplied hardened state is up to the spec it should be supplied at (a lot gets returned as it is not within specification)
  • After report approval the bar stock is then cut into blanks and rough CNC profiling is carried out
  • These items are then sent for stress relieving
  • The blanks are then properly EDM wire cut into shape
  • They are then sent off for heat treating / nitriding
  • The gears are then specially polished with a particular blend of ceramic media and chemicals to achieve a specified surface finish
  • Several finished gears from each batch are then sent back to the metalurgist to be cut up to measure nitriding depth is within spec as is surface hardness and surface RA

It is from here that we can ok the gears for assembley into pumps and be sure that each ger set is the same as the next and up to our specification.

No worries! Process is as below:


  • Raw material bar stock is purchased from local supplier
  • A cut from both different sizes of bar stock is sent to a metalurgist to check that material composition and supplied hardened state is up to the spec it should be supplied at (a lot gets returned as it is not within specification)
  • After report approval the bar stock is then cut into blanks and rough CNC profiling is carried out
  • These items are then sent for stress relieving
  • The blanks are then properly EDM wire cut into shape
  • They are then sent off for heat treating / nitriding
  • The gears are then specially polished with a particular blend of ceramic media and chemicals to achieve a specified surface finish
  • Several finished gears from each batch are then sent back to the metalurgist to be cut up to measure nitriding depth is within spec as is surface hardness and surface RA

It is from here that we can ok the gears for assembley into pumps and be sure that each ger set is the same as the next and up to our specification.

Cool, very indepth.

Would be cool to see a feature or a video explaining the process.

But at the end of the day. I will hold my tongue on what I am only hearing without proof.

I am looking at the 2.7 stoker for my next build after this 1, most likely wont be in the 33 tho.

At the end of the day, I am just going with what my builder trusts.

Forcefed, might however have some more info behind what he has heard.

Something to look into for the future definitely.

Totally understand going with what your engine builder is recommending.

Good luck with it! I'm sure it will be well enjoyed!

Until I kill it from flogging the life outta it like the last time hahaha.

At least this time I will have the EGT sensors to help push the engine to its limits safetly :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...