Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

f**k your signature is annoying ^^ who are you trying to impress ? losers that dont already know that stuff?

why do those 2 fail so gard at driving awesome cars .cheer the f**k up lol . how many retries do the both want at the lights .

f**k i find you annoying - who are you trying to impress HA!

so u know your ADM GTR's? that is good hear :)

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmmm

Lot of hatred for the GTR here. Commodore looks better than a GTR? ... really? yeah.. okaaay... Zebra and Mad sound...jealous and mad. I best stick to nagtroc for more intelligent posts.

jealous? not of a GTR owner. mad? yeah, but again, nothing to do with not owning a GTR.

as i have said many times before, if i won lotto i wouldn't even test drive a r35 GTR for shits and giggles. i would take a datsun 120y with rust holes and running on 2 cylinders over a r35 GTR. if given a r35 i would drive it to my local nissan dealer and trade it for a 370z then put a twin turbo kit on it. the r35 is not on my supercar wish list.

so i ask you, are you positively annoyed friend? umad that your expensive car in no way, shape or form makes me jealous of you?

gallardo = raging bull

GTR = nerd

I HATE the R35s.

Hated the prototype and hate the production models.

They look like someone took plaster of paris and a hammer to a humpback whale and cut 4 stupidly large holes in the sides for the wheels.

The GTR isnt engineering, Its programming.

I you actually had the money totally spare how could you not buy a Lamborghini or Ferrari over an R35,

Tbh if someone said you can have either an r34 or an r35 I'd take the r34 any day,

Proper manual and looks awesome

And it's a damn shame

The best thing lambo did was make that balboni gallardo

Rear wheel drive and proper manual

It's a shame Ferrari have basically ceased making proper manuals,

It's all about the numbers obviously the car is faster to 100km/h with paddle shift but that's not the only thing that makes a good car

Edited by stig mick

I HATE the R35s.

Hated the prototype and hate the production models.

They look like someone took plaster of paris and a hammer to a humpback whale and cut 4 stupidly large holes in the sides for the wheels.

The GTR isnt engineering, Its programming.

this. nissan made a car that any useless hack can go fast in, regardless of their skill level.

I do like having a clutch under my foot, I do agree with u!

R35 is playstation but this is where technology is heading

in 10 years time the GTR won't even require driver input, yet fanbois will continue to drool over it based on numbers it does. i'd rather a slower car that is more exciting to drive rather than a car that you just floor it and steer and all the computers keep you on the road. it's like playing a racing game and turning all the assists on. it just isn't fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...