Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm going out to the creek on monday so what's the go?

1. Helmet?

2. Long sleeve shirt? Why?

3. Put cheap tyres on.

4. I have an auto/tiptronic. Will I have tranny overheating problems? How do I know if it's getting bad? Just keep an eye on my engine oil temp gauge I guess.

5. It's twenty minute runs I think. Much waiting in between?

6. Anything else I should know?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38118-my-first-track-day-what-do-i-need/
Share on other sites

1. required, must comply with AS 1698 or equivalent.

2. "neck to wrist to ankle" non flammable clothing, driving suit recommended, shoes must also be non-flammable . i.e. sneakers made of synthetic materials are technically not allowed.

3. heh

4. should be OK, you won't be pushing it that hard I would expect.

5. if there's 3 groups then 40 minutes in between (60/3=20) :(, if there's 4 groups Dave usually runs 15 minute sessions

6. BLEED YOUR BRAKES!!!!!!!!!!! This is the most overlooked thing for track preparation. Nothing worse than having the pedal go to the floor on the 3rd lap because of all the grungy sh1t in your lines and calipers. :D

Check all fluid levels, tyre pressures, wheel nuts, everything!

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days so stick to your limits and you'll have a great time and drive home in an unbent car.

oh and have fun :)

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days so stick to your limits and you'll have a great time and drive home in an unbent car.

Damn! I all that hard work went to nothing. I really thought I had a chance with Montoya leaving. :)

Keep an eye on your temp guage and you should be good.

If it's your first time out there, get one of the regular trackday hoons to show you the lines. What ever you do, don't get Fatz to show you the lines. He drives on some funny lines that bloke :D

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days so stick to your limits and you'll have a great time and drive home in an unbent car.
What the... ? Wish you had told me this last time I was at the Creek. Would have saved me about $2,500 in brake repairs :D

Definitely bleed your brakes with brand new DOT5.1 Brake fluid (about $100 inc labour at your local brake mechanic).

I'd also highly recommend asking either a "Driving Instructor" (their are usually 2-3 at the trackdays) or someone whom has been to 2-3 trackdays before to passenger around with you for the first session (or 2). You don't need 1000's of hp to cut a quick lap... you need good lines and smooth throttle/braking. No point trying to put Schumacher out of a job on your first outing, just work on getting the lines right and learning the corners.

When the checkered flag is shown reduce your speed to about 60-80 in 4th gear (for the cool down lap) to help all your temperatures drop. When you make it back to the pits drive all the way out to the main road and back before parking in the pit garage. This will allow your brakes and engine oil etc to cool down. When you arrive back at your garage leave your handbrake off and just throw something behind a wheel. Keep your bonnet raised until your next session is due (about 40mins).

Make sure you remove anything loose from your car; Headunit, Center Console, Glove Box, sub box, spare tyre, jack etc.

Contrary to popular belief Frank Williams does NOT recruit at drive days ....

What the?

I've got one to add :/

Don't go out there trying to set a quick time! Its your first day, get used to how the car reacts on the track, build speed gradually, that way you'll bring your car home straight and learn a heap about driving....

Bob, good to see you're still at it.:P (I was in the purple 180SX at the Skylines Australia skidpan day a while back).

I'd say:

Take some concentrated coolant and distilled water.

Get some cotton gardening gloves if you're going to change tyres. Take some wet-wipes as well. It sucks getting grease and stuff on your steering wheel (as well as being unsafe).

Buy some racing gloves. You only have to get blisters once before it seems like a good idea.

Take a look under your car before a session to see if anything is leaking out after the last session (I noticed burst caster rod bushings this way).

Make sure your battery is secure, since scrutes always check this first.

Take out your floormats.

benm is right. Make sure you let your brakes and other stuff actually cool down on the cooldown lap. I just had my front rotors machined recently after they warped from a trackday at Wakefield because I didn't let them cool down.

Ask people stuff. I asked a lady who drives an awesome (and loud) dark blue RX-7 to show me the right line on the circuit map at Wakefield, and the next session, my average lap time went down almost half a second.

Don't you also need a secondary bonnet release? That's what i was told anyway??

any cams event will require a L2S license, secondary bonnet tie down and a fire extinguisher.

The track days run by motoconcepts, unique autosports, wakefield park etc only require roadworthy car, helmet and long clothes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Details: Turbo Borg Warner EFR 9180 with 1.05 rear housing Upgraded TurboSmart integrated BOV Sanded and powdercoated compressor cover in gloss black Elbow welded with wiggins clamp Speed Sensor(Not included) (Can include oil drain(heat wrapped + titanium intake pipe with almost new filter for a tad extra). Manifold: 6 Boost RB26/30 twin scroll manifold  e-MAP ports drilled into both scrolls(I was using the TAARKS EMAP KIT) Turbo is in excellent condition. Always used Penrite 15w50 Racing oil(Changed less then 2000ks). Also using the Turbosmart OP regulator and filter. Downpipe: 4inch Stainless steel with VBand inlet and outlet clamps(included) Heat wrapped Dual ports for Dyno/Wideband usage Will throw in free 2.5 inch intercooler pipe(2.5inch From turbo outlet to 3.5 inch intercooler) - Powder coated black. Turbo made 563rwkw on mainline hub dyno at around 24-25psi boost - Pump fuel. Will def make over 600kw on e85. Didn't bother as my e-MAP was through the roof with my setup sitting past the choke line. I have a cnc ported and fully built head on my 3.2. Turbine speed saw max of around 109k rpm. I'm running this on my R32 GTR, with AC, and the original power steering pump. The manifold clears the AC lines, ABS, and everything else. Although I had new AC lines because I just wanted new ones and I heat wrapped them as well. This will make more power on a slightly lower capacity motor with a higher PR. And I have since upgraded to a G45-1500. Have pics and videos if need be.  Absolutely nothing wrong with setup. Turbo is in perfect condition. No shaft play or oil leaks at all. All the work was professionally done. The transient response of this is fkn amazing. I cannot rave more about this turbo. If I wasn't chasing 4 figures, I would have kept it. $5000 NZ. Located: Auckland, New Zealand.    
    • I particularly like the look of the John Player Special team. (Thumbnail isn't different but hit play for the clip)  
    • Such a cool collection of cars back then.  
    • Mystery solved, thanks bro Bit of a strange mix, but i dont mind it, still looks good. 
    • nah no problems with bearings or hubs.  just the water pump leak and my AC death
×
×
  • Create New...