Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys,

I own a 2003 v35 coupe 6mt. Lately I've been having issues with my brakes, a gushing/grinding noise has been coming from the front left side brakes. I attributed it to wearing pads, so I took it to midas this morning and the told me that everything will need to be replaced. Rotors, pads and since they're brembo everything will be pricier. He quoted me $1,300 for everything. How much would rotors and pads be by themselves?

Thanks in advance guys,

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381338-v35-brake-service/
Share on other sites

Contact GSL Rallyspot a forum sponsor on here for pads and rotors, not hard to find as he has his own section. I would say an educated guess would about 400-500 (I might even be wrong) for new front rotors and pads to suit. As for labour it shouldn't be more than 1-2hrs

Hmmm

Sounds a bit worrying, its always good to get a second or even third opinion.

The trade is quiet @ the moment in places so they may be trying to pull the wool over your eyes. If its just sounds your hearing and not feeling anything through the pedal it may just need pads, so your thinking is right. Have a look @ the rotors thru the wheel; do they have a lip or grooves or any other strange markings? The rotor should be smooth, but if they are glazed, they may need a machine or the very least a few firm stops to take the shine off them; providing all else is ok.

It may not even be the pads making the noise; we had a guy here who had a similar problem on his car, and it turned out to be the backing shim of the disc rubbing.

Food for thought :banana:

The Brembo disks are extremely hard and will require a carbide disk cutter, mine only cost $20 each to machine so hopefully they are ok. New Brembo disks are expensive but you can get aftermarket ones cheaper.

It may just have a rock caught behind the disk so definitely get a second opinion. Where are you located?

I have a front OEM Brembo rebuild kit here if you need one.

The Brembo disks are extremely hard and will require a carbide disk cutter, mine only cost $20 each to machine so hopefully they are ok. New Brembo disks are expensive but you can get aftermarket ones cheaper.

It may just have a rock caught behind the disk so definitely get a second opinion. Where are you located?

I have a front OEM Brembo rebuild kit here if you need one.

Interesting. When I took the car to Midas, the "mechanic" told me the discs were completely worn through and were too thin to machine? He was more than likely trying to upsell me to the moon. I'll make an appointment to see a brake specialist and see what he says.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...