Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey again Guys, have another GTR bar for sale.. Complete package or will separate, so if you need just the Lip or factory Mesh then shoot me a PM or hit me up back here.

It does need a little bit of work as the paint is pretty average so would need a respray, though seems to be all in good order still bar a few minor spots..

Will have some pics up soon, is Genuine & pickup is from Sydneys West, NSW.. $400 complete or make an offer on pieces ( Bar / Lip / Mesh ).

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381389-gtr-bar-lip-mesh-r32/
Share on other sites

PM's sent!!

Hi mate, will have some pics up soon.. Just have to get some as it's at a mates house like most of my stuff lol. Have been moving interstate so yeah, sh!t everywhere at the moment.

Cheers, Matt

Ok, here are some pics of the Bar, Lip & Mesh... The Mesh is in Excellent condition!! No Damage, bends or breaks!! Nice & straight, very rare condition & sort after!!

The Bar itself is in pretty good condition, but as stated bar a few spots. It needs a re-paint due to some flaking from poor prep work prior to being reprayed some time ago & one of the corners that bolt up under the Gaurds has broken off.! Though its only a small bit as seen in the photos so shouldnt be too hard to fix at all.. All the Tabs are in good condition, no breaks & once painted up it will be a very nice bar in deed!!

Lip, not too bad. All Tabs are in good condition as well like the Bar, & looking front on & down below its in decent condition in deed. But, underneath on the corners its been rubbed away from general driving & is starting to miss its plastic peel over! If you look at the pics you'll see what i mean, but this does NOT take away any of the looks what so ever when fitted to the car & resprayed!! You cannot notice it once its fitted as its underneath the car & does not affect its structor or capability for fitting.. Its nothing major to really be concerned about, am just being honest as its not immaculate & would require a bit of glass for a 'show car'..

Anyway, check it out & first in best dressed gets it, or gets whatever part they need!! Thanks Guys, regards :action-smiley-069:

gtr1hd.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

lip1a.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

mesh1.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

mesh2g.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

cornerz.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

lip2c.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

damage1u.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

damage2d.th.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Yeah mate, still for sale!! The Mesh is sort of on hold at the moment, am just waiting for the funds. So Bar & Lip are still available!! Have had many inquires about the two but no solid payments as most have been interstate.. Cheers guys.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...