Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys. i was wanting to know what you thought an r33 gtst that has been hit in the drivers side would be worth. the car is a write off and would be only good for parts. the engine is still in going condition although it has been flogged and lacks alot of power compared to other stock r33 gtst's. the rear of the car is still good. the front bumper is broken. the drivers seat and fuse box area is all broken up but the rest of the car looks to be in reasonable condition.

just wanting to know what you think this would be worth to buy for ugrades and spares as i have a r33 gts. wont be fitting engine just things like brakes and stuff.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381790-crashed-r33/
Share on other sites

doesnt sound like there is much value left in it if motor is shagged just gearbox + brakes etc if they are ok everything else is minor bits and bobs could get a bit parting it but for someone to buy it as is probably 1-1.5k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381790-crashed-r33/#findComment-6091124
Share on other sites

So you're not selling one then? Kinda the wrong section riiiight?

As alr33x wrote, ~$1k especially if the engine is crap.

Get a compression test and leak down test to see how bad the engine is

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381790-crashed-r33/#findComment-6092802
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

you could get about $900 for gearbox if the motor is flogged but include everything thats needed to run it you probs could get 1k, then for hubs, rotors and calipers you could get a good $700 thats if its 5 stud also interior about $400-$500, left side door about $100-$200, spoiler and boot about $200, if bonnet is still good thats another $200, wheels you could sell those as well if there stockies you can get $200 for them, if its got a exhaust like a 3" cat back thats another $250, or stock exhaust about $50, if you got a sound system you can sell that, also you could sell engine loom or include it with engine sale. Also you can sell the tailshaft for about $100, then you can sell rear tail lights that will get you $100, r33 interior floor mats about $50, then you can take the diff out thats another $200, fuel pump another $50

Theres a few parts you can sell as the skyline does come with a lot of parts.

If you have the time and dont mind storing it and give it a month or 2 worth of storage you could have all those parts gone and get back about 4k maybe a bit more.

Might seem high but trust me ive stripped a whole r33 down to the bare metal and sold off every part and got most of the cash back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381790-crashed-r33/#findComment-6119569
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...