Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi crew,

As per topic I have my R32 GTR booked in tomorrow to have R33 GTR Brembo's fitted with new larger slotted Dba rotors as a minor brake upgrade.

I have fully forgotten about the rotor gaurd.

The new rotors are RDA to suit the 33 Brembo calipers and are obviously larger.

What should and/or can i do about the Rotor gaurds as they wont fit over the larger rotors :(

1. Wait and get some to fit

2. Flatten out to fit or

3. Remove entirely.

4. are the DBA 4000 series any good or should i be looking for something else ?

Those in the know your help will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

PS. I Posted in the <LI class=first>Skylines Australia > Modifications & Maintenance <LI>> Suspension, braking and tyres

But very quiet tonight :(

pinch.gif "paybacks a bitch"

I hear that DBA 4000 series rotors crack after 1 or 2 track days.

So getting the Club Spec DBA 4000 which are spose to be new. I'll let everyone now how it goes.

It's too late for me to do much else but advise others to go 5000 series or Project Mu for piece of mind and if you have the $$$$

I'd love too Kat but I dont have the coin to buy AP 6 pots ATM. I reckon all up Ive paid half the cost but likely half the stopping power too :(

So all done today.

Front stone gaurds straightend out, rears fit with less gap.

I'm now running the Brembo Calipers. I had them fully serviced by PBR prior to putting them on.

DBA Rotors T3 = 6 x 6 wiper slotted. (Newer design/model)

Bendix SRT pads ($291 a set !!) nxt time I'll go Project Mu.

HEL metal braided lines and good quality brake fluid.

Cost a damn fortune today :( -

Feels doughy on day 1.

Need to pump em up at the moment or they go halfway down prior to any feeling in the foot.

IS THIS NORMAL ?

I'm taking my GTR back on monday to have them re_bled.

I'll take your advice on putting through heat cycles before tracking next year.

When I had the EBC yellow pads in my were not the best(a bit doughy, needed 2 stabs to get instant response), but I think that may of had something to do with the install. EBC reds professionally installed work from start. I have not used the pads you have so can't comment on them.

Heat cycles are fairly standard and as per the manufacturers recomended bed in process. Gradual braking from 60-20, 8 times then let them cool a bit, then repeat say 4 times. Then from 100-40 and repeat. If you have acess to a private road higher speeds are also recomended. Firm but gradual without stopping seems to be the trick. I've never cracked a cheap RDA rotar doing multiple track days, sure they got a bit crazed, but they wore out before they developed into cracks.

With the R33 GTR brakes you won't lose much to the AP ones, sure the AP's are better but unless you have great tyres I don't think the on track differences should be that different in purely braking. Weight savings with the high end APs maybe?

In combo with the Michelin Pilot Sport Cups they are amazing.

These ones are lighter, they're a variant that I got from the US called Competition Grey and are lighter than the standard AP six pots.

This kit is also running Mintex pads which don't seem to be too common but so far I'm pretty happy with them. See how they go when I get it on the track next year.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...