Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, be fair

The R33 diff is a common conversion into BA falcons in drag racing and speedway circles. The trick is, that you need to use a front diff out of the GTS4 (NA). This will bolt straight in but you'll then have to convert the Falcon to 4 stud at the back. You'll also need to fit the Skyline steering rack and lock it out, but this has the benefit of giving you adjustable toe on the back of the Falcon. If you're half smart you can put a tee line into your power steering return lines, install a couple of electric solenoid actuated pilot valves and connect this to the unused terminals in the Falcon ECU to give you HICAS (you;ll need to call your local Pirtek dude to make up the hyd lines for you, as the Skyline and Falcon hydraulic fittings are different - Skylines use 1/4" BSPP and Falcon uses 3/8" NPT). Again, a little known fact that Ford played around with HICAS style rear steering, but gave it away as too costly on their budget spec taxis.

True

u wouldn't happen to know what the difference is between the front and rear diffs out of the skylines.???

The front diff is in the front and the rear diff is in the back

the front diff is open but you can convert it to LSD with a Phantom Grip assembly. To increase the locking, you use coarse lapping paste between the faces. Note you'll need to build up and machine the faces every 5000km because they'll wear out so quickly.

Problem.jpg?1236877228

Actually you would be better off putting the below diff into your Falcon..

Komatsu HD785-5 Differential Assy

100% guarantee that you will not break it!!!

yeah cheers for that cuz i really needed another wanker telling me wat to do.... shut up unless you can make a good point about what i'm trying to do!!!

yeah cheers for that cuz i really needed another wanker telling me wat to do.... shut up unless you can make a good point about what i'm trying to do!!!

Oh dear!

Not my fault you drive a tractor... Just out of curiosity, have you asked this question on the ford forums?

Why do yo9u want to? Why not just put in a falcodore clutch type LSD and be done with it. The viscous LSD isn't all that great and any entry/mid level aftermarket centre you will get for the 33 diff will be clutch type anyhow. Grab a rebuilt Falcon LSD, chuck it in and bobs your uncle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...