Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

For sale is my 2000 R34 Skyline, due to moving out of the suburbs the km's shes racking up are too much long term.

The car is pretty much stock as a rock i am the first australian owner and have had the car just over 3 yrs.

- Wheels are 235/35/18 and 265/35/18 Zennetti's

- Just gone 108k

- Split Fires Coil Packs

- Pod Filter

- Stereo front splits and rears

- Gizzmo Boost Controller

- Greddy Turbo Timer (Never Connected)

Car always serviced and maintained very regretful sale.

Due to my working comitments car has always been either secure off street parked or facility parked.

Car has always been great a real driving pleasure was a car i thought id never own.

Asking 25k ono

More Pics to follow

post-50098-0-88873600-1320618339_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382264-2000-r34-gt-t-man-turbo/
Share on other sites

Car just sitting in drive way, have a daily only reason for sale is upgrade to GTR . So offers of $20k ono will b considered a shame for her to just sit there

Seriously......I bought my clean black R34GTT with 86000kms for $14000 in Sydney a year and half ago.

It had these when I bought: a full 3" Blitz exhaust system (except dump), Turbosmart T boost controller set @12psi, Blitz SUS pod in custom cold air box, short shift kit (yes its a manual too), Cusco adjustable coilovers, RAYS 18" wheels wrapped in Bridgestone Potenzer tyres, Autometer Boost Gauge, Turbo timer, Pioneer 12" Subwoofer, Pioneer high power amp, Pioneer CD/DVD player, Blitz blow off valve....so you can see heaps of quality parts and the car was (and is) in top condition bar a little scratch in the dash. I sold off things I dont want - the subwoofer, amp and Blitz BOV and put in a Nistune, FMIC and fuel pump for a chunky power bump!

So as others have said above, you might want to revise your price in a pretty big way..!! Or let it sit there hoping for some pea-brained kid will snap it up over time (highly unlikely at that price) if ur not in a rush.. Good luck.:happy:

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for your input guys,

But i don't think where on the same page 1. I'm in not rush to sell i have 3 cars so it goes or it doesn't and 2. This is the one of the only GTT's in Melbourne with real road presence.

What separates this from the rest is it is virtually stock and if you know how to buy imports standard is a safer bet than worked.

Now i know in saying what i have im gonna cop flack but please before u Muppet's out there take this post the wrong way, relax but from all the different R34 gtt i have seen out and around Melbourne this is simply a perfect specimen of a R34 GT-T not mocked up to look like something else.

Now the only reason I am going to revise the price will b based on the lack of space i have money isn't the issue.

In saying this the new revised price is $18K ONO

Thanks guys,

Looks like an excellent example of an R34. I think your spot on with the money, the 34's which are still in fantastic condition still demand that sort of money.

Best of luck with the sale, hang out for your price and im sure a serious buyer will come up.

Looks like an excellent example of an R34. I think your spot on with the money, the 34's which are still in fantastic condition still demand that sort of money.

Best of luck with the sale, hang out for your price and im sure a serious buyer will come up.

+1

from the looks of the market silver is an expensive colour especially with the nismo/altia kit.

i own one with the same kms, colour, kit, mods and same condition as youve described and will be asking for 20k when i sell next year.

goodluck with your sale mate and would really appreciate it if you PM'd me how it all went when sold as im in the same boat as you.

Man I havent seen the car in person so I cant justify your asking price. But I will say this, ask the price the car itself deserves. If it really is immac inside out, hold it at 22-25k. Who gives a sh*t what the majority think of the price, all you need is 1 buyer that can justify it when he sees it. Not to mention there are too many low ballers out there. Good luck mate.

  • 1 month later...

Thanks guy's for the support

I've given to my cousin to drive for now he thinks his king hahaha

like i said no rush bought a territory ghia for the other side of life and im building a house so a boot is a game changer haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...