Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTS-25T turbo back system advice.


Recommended Posts

I have a r33 GTS-25T Auto with 10.5 psi, air filter and blitz DD bov, it has now come to the time where i need that bit more and i was thinking turbo back including dump pipe 3inch. iam new to this "modifications" scene so i come to ask for all you skyline drivers wisdom...Will there be a noticable change in performance? if so where at? top end? bottom end?i have also heard that i can run round 12psi with this mod.

ps. Anyone know any places where i can go that do a good job? or of any good prices?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok exhausts are pretty straight forward as far as it all goes. Your main consideration should be noise and price.

Normally its one of the first things people do as it allows the later mods to really show through.

The bigger the exhaust the louder it tends to be (althought exceptions may occur).

I'm running an r33 s1 gtst and the first thing i did was get the zorst upgraded to 3 inch all the way from the turbo (inc dump pipe) and whack on a 3inch tip. It wont really effect how much boost you can run instead it effects how it responds to boost if that makes sense.

As for power, well the engine should feel less limited through the entire range.

Next question... aftermarket or custom??

I side with custom as to me a tube is a tube and where as mandral bends etc are good, after market mandral bends are the same as custom mandral bends if of good quality, so why spends a whole pile of extra cash. All your looking for is the shortest least restrictive way out for the exhaust.

My exhaust cost me 1300 from western mufflers in fairfield syd, there pretty good in my eyes. By bro in law uses them to build his drag cars exhausts aswell, they know what they're doing, with the added bonus that the owner talks like dr nick from the simpsons. Also in my eyes it has a nice note and isnt too loud

For the time being i'd worry less about upping boost and more about prepping the engine so that when you do up the boost the engines ready for it.

Next i'm gonna do the ecu then boost controller then fmic. I'll replace my BOV once boost gets high enough that i have to, otherwise its just cop bait and noise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...