Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its not really just GTR tax, Akrapovic charges high for all their exhausts. Its about establishing a premium brand, and just like all premium brands are they overpriced? Yes. However you get the best quality, the exclusivity and IMO best sound too.

Worth the extra outlay? Well if the GTR is your dream car and you want the very best parts for it, yeah for me it is. In the process of sourcing one now.

90% of the extra sound in a catback system comes from going catless in the midpipe - thus best bang for buck exhaust mod is midpipe only

the best sound (and power) comes when you go catless on the downpipes, and you won't really understand how much better it sounds until you do it

muffler only is really just increasing the volume of a bottle knecked system. I know because i did my exhaust in 3 stages - catless midpipe (great sound), muffler (slight increase volume only) and lastly catless dp's (complete change in tone, more raspy, more burble crackle/pop on overun, significantly improved turbo spool)

i was initially looking at spending 7k on the amuse system but what stopped me is the GTR tax - Amuse charge half that for the 370Z system which includes more ti and more mufflers, and that's just taking the piss

someone only recently pointed out my 997 gt2 has an akro exhaust from oem, so i guess that's given them the excuse to jump on the GTR tax bandwagon

i spent just over 2k for my cat back, looks fantastic and works even better. Been running it for almost a year now with no discoloration of the ti. One of the best buys i've ever made mod'ing cars.

each to their own, this is just one person's feedback

IMG_7961.jpg

Edited by domino_z

I ended up with the Willall, doing a two-step thing like Domino and agree that the rear section added more noise but the mid pipe makes the bigger change in sound from stock.

Keeping my warranty precludes me from doing downpipes.

Let's all remember we are driving a TT V6, no exhaust will make this car sound like a GT3 or Scuderia.

Considering the cost, weight, material and backup with the Willall product, it's hard to go past them in my opinion, unless you can get lucky on Alibaba like Domino did.

^^^ Steven, nice of you to join up on SAU to advertise your business - NOT. As you would realise, if you want to advertise on SAU, you need to become a sponsor. Consider this your first and last warning.

When installing ECU flash and or Exhaust, the car needs to be tuned on a dyno, is hub dyno or wheel dyno better than one another? Personally I prefer the wheels to stay on in case they damage the rims or brakes, what's everyone's opinion?

Cheers

  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i bought my exhaust direct off alibaba from one of the ti exhaust manufacturers in china

it's 90mm, sounds great with de-catted downpipes and catted midpipe (didnt gain much sound when i added this to my midpipe only though - it's same layout/design as oem afterall), smooth quality welds inside and out, and looks even better

Following this trend, I thought I'd try a china stainless exhaust off E-bay.

Picked up a catback for about $700, and a midpipe for $260 (after a couple of bids) plus about $100 delivery all up. Honestly, at that price I really couldn't refuse.

Seems good so far!

Edited by Brockas
  • 1 month later...

I had the Willal mid-pipe installed on Friday. The car sounds a lot better now though still pretty quiet and tame. I did a drive up to Harvey Bay and back overnight on Friday and very happy with how it cruises at highway speeds - no droning etc. They are a pretty noisy car imo with heaps of road noise etc so I'd much rather it be noisy with the exhaust. I might consider doing the dump pipes now but then have the considerations for cats - catless or high-flow in the dump pipes or the mid-pipe???

I had the Willal mid-pipe installed on Friday. The car sounds a lot better now though still pretty quiet and tame. I did a drive up to Harvey Bay and back overnight on Friday and very happy with how it cruises at highway speeds - no droning etc. They are a pretty noisy car imo with heaps of road noise etc so I'd much rather it be noisy with the exhaust. I might consider doing the dump pipes now but then have the considerations for cats - catless or high-flow in the dump pipes or the mid-pipe???

Mine's on the way to Willall now and part of the work is a mid pipe install- I know it'll be louder than stock but I hope it's not still too quiet afterwards.

Might have to look at other additions while it's over there...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...