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NGK Bcpr6es 0.8 I gapped em to 1.1 n that didn't help on that problem but ran better cause I got new coils so dnt see the point of gapping...should I try diff plugs cause alot on here use them. but had read on here saying the bcpr are for rb20?maybe oil is to thick cause I'm running 15/50 cause I'm up 2500km on this oil,,,maybe the oil taking ages to warm up?

Im using PFR5G-11 but its a NA.

I doubt its oil my engine is using 10w40 and still does it and is in A1 condition after replacing almost everything now.

Also if it was oil causing something like this, the lifters would tap there heads off early morning because not enough oil would be reaching the head.

Just cant understand why when i tap the accelerator is fixes itself or if i let it stall the 2nd start is perfect.

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Mine does exactly the same thing r33 series 2 GTST... Idles rough at first start up then u give it a tap Pryor throttle and it's fine....

My car is stock as a rock bar the 3inch exhaust...

I have noticed since i changes the oil that it has stopped happening... Though it is starting to warm up during the summer months so not sure how much that would effect it....

Mayb try a afm-less start next time and see if it does it on the limp map?

i tried this today but nothing changed.

Over the last few days i have also been holding the clutch in when cold starting. Its been starting good.

Could someone have a few goes and see if it helps them....

Yea I'll give it a go tonight when Its dead cold if I remember

The whether has been sh#t cold here at night so will be a good test

I tried it again but its still doing it. Holding the clutch in is just causing it to not stall as easily but the longer the car is left the more worse the start is. After 24 hours its a guaranteed stall.

cheers

My car still does this. Sometimes it dies out the first start then second time its perfect but on occasions it will fire up first time after a long cold, and after about 3 seconds of 300 rpm.

The response from that other chap on page one got me really puzzled, all brand new parts etc and its still there. I'm used to it because its done it for long enough but it is still something that shouldn't be happening so I'd like it gone.

My car still does this. Sometimes it dies out the first start then second time its perfect but on occasions it will fire up first time after a long cold, and after about 3 seconds of 300 rpm.

The response from that other chap on page one got me really puzzled, all brand new parts etc and its still there. I'm used to it because its done it for long enough but it is still something that shouldn't be happening so I'd like it gone.

Yeah i dont exaggerate about all the parts i have changed, only because i work for nissan parts i could afford to do it.

CAS and fuel presure reg are the only things left, everything else is new. I only care if i sell my car because it makes it look crap but its really almost showroom. Everyone that sees it thinks its done less than 10,000km.

Seems to be a common problem and dosnt matter if its a NA or a turbo by the looks of it.....32 and 33 aswell

I have tried priming it but it does nothing.

Edited by central coast person

Have u guys tried disconnecting the coolant temp sensor? Im curious to see if there is too much fuel on cold start and the throttle needs to be pressed to lean it out a little.

Central coast person, what series is ur engine. I might be able to plug in a nistune to ur car and see if i can sort the cold start issue out or not

Sarge try taking fuel out of the under 10degree area(or wherever the temp is sitting) before u start it with the coolant temp sensor connected.

Hey DVS,

I brought a new coolant temp sensor but it did nothing . Wiring and conector are also fine for it....

Car started up rough as all hell today as its cold and rainy on the coast.

When it starts up rough it splutters like a drag car with lumpy cams and yes if i tap the accelorator it definatley is leaning the car out as it idles like a brand new car the second you feed it more air or if i start the car with my foot on the accelorator pedal pushed in about 2-3mm, it starts like there is no problem at all (i dont like doing this though because if my foot is down more than 2-3mm it rev's the shit out of it on cold start). I dont imagine this problem to be good for a cold start aswell as it stalls and idle jumps around for about 5 seconds so either way its a lose, lose situation.

DVS if you can check it when ever you want, it is a series 2 engine.

Excellent. I have a series 2 nistune in z32 ecu inmy drifter so i can use that to see if i can get the cold start right on ur car.

What i meant with the coolant sensor is to trick the ecu to think the car is warmer so it wont add as much fuel on cold start to see if it helps.

Might be the other way though and need more fuel.

Trial and error

Excellent. I have a series 2 nistune in z32 ecu inmy drifter so i can use that to see if i can get the cold start right on ur car.

What i meant with the coolant sensor is to trick the ecu to think the car is warmer so it wont add as much fuel on cold start to see if it helps.

Might be the other way though and need more fuel.

Trial and error

Tastey.

I think i gave that a go a while back, cant really remember. I'll give it a go after work that will be enough time to cause it to start up like that.

Where and when would you be able to try the ECU out?

A lot of post on the NET with this problem on skylines and not one has a fix

Edited by central coast person

Hey Guys, this might not be helpful at all but my car does this too and today i tried something different. I didnt let the fuel pump prime and the car started fine.

May have been a slight studder but way better than usual, but my car is stock so don't know if it helps. No mods stock ECU.

Could have just been a fluke but might be worth a shot and it backs what DVS is saying about it being too rich (too much fuel at startup). The Fix who knows lol

I keep trying different things every time I start the car up. Holding the clutch down SOMETIMES makes a difference. Today I went to pull fuel out but had no idea how to do that(under the correction table for water temp? Which column on the HC?). In the morning it was sitting on 29C water temp, the car fired up first time. I'll try the quick start tonight although it might not work because my piece of shit alarm takes about a second or two to let my ignition come on after the key is turned, piece of rubbish. Its not enough time for me to check my wideband to see any output so its no help.

My car done this when it was stock as as it could be, bar the exhaust and cooler. It does it now with everything I got on it(turbo, injectors, ecu, fuel pump, afm etc). Spark plugs don't do shit. I got brand new oem coils with brand new plugs, no change. Done it with my old plugs, done it with my yellow jackets, with my old coils. It must be an air to fuel thing. Maybe Ill get someone to start the car for me while I sit near the exhaust and see if there is a rush of unburnt fuel smell.

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