Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just drive it nicely and you'll have no problems.

Have you just run the intake direct from the turbo to the inlet? If so brilliant throttle response!

yep direct from turbo to intake, its like accellerates before i put my foot down cause its that quick lol j/k but its almost instant power and spool just makes the engine run between 1/2 and 3/4 when boosting up hills and stuff, more boost higher the needle, hopefully my 800x300x76 fmic will help bring the internal temp down and icrease some hp

i was running my rb20det with no intercooler only around the block as would have big problems with changing gears, major power loss to the point of almost stalling/ cutout.. fitted the fmic 3 weeks ago and made the world of difference, reduced the over all running temp and a huge difference in power with NO cutout...

i was running my rb20det with no intercooler only around the block as would have big problems with changing gears, major power loss to the point of almost stalling/ cutout.. fitted the fmic 3 weeks ago and made the world of difference, reduced the over all running temp and a huge difference in power with NO cutout...

excellent great to get some feedback, should have my fmic by the end of this week, then boostin away till my hearts content, runs bloody good as is though, but feels like someones got there foot gently on the brake till 3 psi then there is a sudden power gain,,, and no its not just the boost gain, fells like an extra piston kickin in but its runnign smooth as??

Guest INASNT
yep direct from turbo to intake, its like accellerates before i put my foot down cause its that quick lol j/k but its almost instant power and spool just makes the engine run between 1/2 and 3/4 when boosting up hills and stuff, more boost higher the needle, hopefully my 800x300x76 fmic will help bring the internal temp down and icrease some hp

That size FMIC is a massive overkill unless u r planning on running a 800hp turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...