Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Give me a couple of weeks.

Just fitted 4000 series front and rear to my R32. Running EBC ceramic RS fnt and GS on the rear

I'll keep you all posted

(BTW) I ran EBC V2 RS on OEM rotors for TT03. The ceramics work better at low temps for sure. And initially feel stronger. Remembering that brakes are personal. In the early carbon days on the superbikes, guys would run carbon on one side and conventional on the other... prefering feel to outright performance.

TT

They feel no different than standard rotors, however on a track they will last longer than standard rotors due to better heat dissipation.

I've been using DBA4000 for about 9mths now with RB74 front pads and COMP2's on the rear. This RB74 pad is where the real difference in stopping power is :D

Hi XEQTOR, we use DBA rotors on all of our cars, road and race. The pads of choice are Hawke Carbotic, in the Blue compound. The alternative is Performance Friction Carbon Metallic, in the 01 compound.

I have got DBA4000 slotted rotor F&R on both the R33 GTST and GTR and have found them quite good.  A noticeable difference on the time taken to induce fade.

i had them on my soarer and they vastly improved stopping especially from high speed. They were Very fade resistant and i'd definately buy them again :D

They feel no different than standard rotors, however on a track they will last longer than standard rotors due to better heat dissipation.

Better heat dissipation.... There is nothing wrong with standard rotors at Symmons Plains, a renown brake tester. The Japanese use good steel and it is well cured by the time we see em (120ks in 10 years)

Trouble is with some of the local product is we get beer cans car doors and all sorts in the mix... end result :D

Anyhow, I've bought the dba sales pitch and we will test, for five days 2500ks

TT

i changed from stock rotors with bendix metal kings to dba4000's with ebc greens, and it made a very noticeable difference (note that my std rotors were 1mm undersize). Very initial bite is low, but they only need a small amount of heat before the bite becomes real positive. Only prob now is the std brake lines. I get fluid fade and/or line swelling after a good thrashing so im getting some braided lines very soon. am told they will make a world of difference, and that if i was even considering track work, i should most definitly get them fitted!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...