Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Give me a couple of weeks.

Just fitted 4000 series front and rear to my R32. Running EBC ceramic RS fnt and GS on the rear

I'll keep you all posted

(BTW) I ran EBC V2 RS on OEM rotors for TT03. The ceramics work better at low temps for sure. And initially feel stronger. Remembering that brakes are personal. In the early carbon days on the superbikes, guys would run carbon on one side and conventional on the other... prefering feel to outright performance.

TT

They feel no different than standard rotors, however on a track they will last longer than standard rotors due to better heat dissipation.

I've been using DBA4000 for about 9mths now with RB74 front pads and COMP2's on the rear. This RB74 pad is where the real difference in stopping power is :D

Hi XEQTOR, we use DBA rotors on all of our cars, road and race. The pads of choice are Hawke Carbotic, in the Blue compound. The alternative is Performance Friction Carbon Metallic, in the 01 compound.

I have got DBA4000 slotted rotor F&R on both the R33 GTST and GTR and have found them quite good.  A noticeable difference on the time taken to induce fade.

i had them on my soarer and they vastly improved stopping especially from high speed. They were Very fade resistant and i'd definately buy them again :D

They feel no different than standard rotors, however on a track they will last longer than standard rotors due to better heat dissipation.

Better heat dissipation.... There is nothing wrong with standard rotors at Symmons Plains, a renown brake tester. The Japanese use good steel and it is well cured by the time we see em (120ks in 10 years)

Trouble is with some of the local product is we get beer cans car doors and all sorts in the mix... end result :D

Anyhow, I've bought the dba sales pitch and we will test, for five days 2500ks

TT

i changed from stock rotors with bendix metal kings to dba4000's with ebc greens, and it made a very noticeable difference (note that my std rotors were 1mm undersize). Very initial bite is low, but they only need a small amount of heat before the bite becomes real positive. Only prob now is the std brake lines. I get fluid fade and/or line swelling after a good thrashing so im getting some braided lines very soon. am told they will make a world of difference, and that if i was even considering track work, i should most definitly get them fitted!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...