Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think 200 from memory. the whole reason we used it was for was for protection from exhaust leaks on the big dump trucks so the harness wasnt totally screwed. we used the large red firesleeve on the main harnesses where the diameter was big enough. but those trucks going up the ramps has constant egt`s of 600-750C for up to an hour solid so would be a hotter engine bay than yours. but the further you can keep it from turbo and exhaust the better :thumbsup:

will try scout around for part number and price on the black one next couple days :cheers:

sorry its taken so long Martin.

yellow sleeve. CAT part no 9X-1386. 4c per cm. comes in 7.5m roll but can be cut off to length. internal diameter 6.81mm

black sleeve. CAT part no 9X-1813. 4c per cm. comes in 3m roll but can be cut off to length. internal diameter 7.62mm

havent had a chance yet to find temp rating.

Got your PM thumbsup.gif

No worries at all man, wasn't in a rush and you've been a massive help :D Mate works at CAT and looked up the part number you gave me, turns out they have 5km of the black stuff in Guildford mellow.gif Wil probably be about enough...

I hope he looked up the right stuff then unsure.gif

well if he is right you should be able to get 4.9km for free as they dont even know they have it. :bunny:

but the max quantity the store keeps is only double figures not sure where 5km came from :wacko:

  • 2 weeks later...

Most Hydraulic hose companies will have fire/heat sleeve. Try places like Hardy Spicer, Southcott or Hydraulink. Most of them will carry the red stuff as this is the main colour used in the hydraulic industry (Red = hot I suppose)

However, I just saw recently that Speedflow is carrying a black version, here, page 30 :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...