Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

Well, It seems some people have "doubts" :bs!: to my claim of 272rwkw, and would like to see the dyno sheet..

And about the ratings, YES the 2540 is stated at quite a low ps figure, as several members stated above... So As you Can Imagine I was quite suprised :( , I believe a lot of it comes down to tuning skill, you can have 50K of Mods under your bonnet, but unless it is configured properly, you are wasting your time/money

The guy who did the tuning, has built several tough cars (He has a 8sec beast) ,

Enough Yap :) , You got the Dyno Sheet???

I finally got it scanned in :rant: but The limit is quite small, about 100KB (The Original Hir Res pic was almost 300K)..., SO I had to Downsize it and whack the colour down, Its not too pretty, I can E-mail out a High Res one if anybody wants, but this should give you an idea...

Hi guys, it does the usual 2540 stuff, no boost to speak of until 3,000 rpm, then everything happens in 600 rpm. This is fairly representative for the large compressor on 2540's. Then they start to drop off (can't hold boost) over 5,000 rpm. This is representative of the small (compared to he compressor) turbine. They have this narrow zone from 3,600 rpm to 5,000 rpm where they work well, anything under that and they feel flat and over that the power drops off because of the exhaust restriction.

But 272 rwkw is a bit more than I have ever seen from a 2540R, HKS rate them at 360 ps plus 10% being for the usual HKS conservative rating = 400 ps or 300 kw. Less the usual 50 rwkw for transmission losses = 250 rwkw. That's about the best I have seen, from a 2540R at 1.3 bar on an RB25 running Optimax. Plus that RB25 was fully tuned, cams, porting, compression, split dump, Apexi FMIC etc.

Is there something missing from your car specs Mose? Like fuel? Compression ratio? Oversize pistons? Cams? Maybe a larger turbine inside the standard cover? I am perplexed as to why this one is a fair bit better than most.

Is there something missing from your car specs Mose? Like fuel? Compression ratio? Oversize pistons? Cams? Maybe a larger turbine inside the standard cover? I am perplexed as to why this one is a fair bit better than most.

As far as I am aware It is tuned on Optimax (He recommends octane booster for High Boost - 18psi) It suprised me as well.. although the dyno chart speaks for itself, you will notice that the turbo is running at its peak, It simply cant push anymore... I was initally concerned with this (ie - Are the extra kw's worth the extra strain, but HKS Turbos are built tough {not indestuctible though} and providing the turbo is allowed to cool down/warm up, it should be okay) Of course If I run high boost constantly, Im asking for trouble.. I rarely hit high boost (I rarely drive the car, as It is for sale and I am keeping the K's down)

your power figure does seem extraordinary as mentioned by sydneykid, but you have the dyno sheet: dyno dynamics dyno, and in shootout mode, which im led to believe makes it comparable to any other run done in the same mode.

great result! your turbo must have some special gizzards but :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...