Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i currently have a stockish r33 gts-t and am running the standard boost of 7 psi. I have an exhaust, pod as my only mod. Ummm well my question is, i was looking to buy a fmic and a avcr boost controller within the nxt few months and i am just wondering, which mod should come first?

I heard that putting on a aftermarket fmic, i may actually lose boost if i dont have a boost controller so does that mean i should purchase the boost controller before i get my fmic?

And also what is the maximum amount of boost i can run on a stockish gts-t?

im thinking around 13psi? to 0.85 bar?

Also lastly, there is nothing wrong with boostin up my car even tho my cars quite stockish, like it wont harm the car in anyway because of the added boost to the stockish engine?

Sorry for the longish post but i hope i can get some answers.

Thanks.

Cheers

GuiLty

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

its got good kilometers on it.

The RB25 has a fault with the intake manifold and if you run too much boost piston number 6 tends to starve and leans out. which casues it to go bang... but this general happens as the car is coming up to the 100k mark & has had a hard previous life. in your case your car is still fairly new an i would once you get the boost controller (avc-r) fitted put it on a dyno and play around with the boost and monitor the a/f ratios. if they start to lean out turn boost down etc: but i would say 10 - 12 psi is safe.

Hi,

Keep the factory intercooler for now.

1)It is not going to stop you running low 13's on the factory cooler.My old gtst ran low 13's with one. The old car was one of the quicker factory turbo'd gtst's around and ran little 205 tyres too.

2)It won't restrict you to only 10psi of boost. The fragile turbine is what you want to be carefull of, it might not last long over 12psi of boost so keep it to 12 or less.

Before shelling out for the fmic consider you won't need it really till you get a bigger turbo in. The extra pipework and cooler size 'may' reduce the engine response even though the power 'might' increase.

the AVCR is an expensive controller ,the blitz units are a little better and cheaper too.A bleeder valve will do the job too.

The pod filter needs a cold air partition otherwise your sucking hot engine bay air. The factory airbox is a better setup than what you have right now, so fix that. Unique autosports sell a partition box kit from memory or you can make one.

its got good kilometers on it.

The RB25 has a fault with the intake manifold and if you run too much boost piston number 6 tends to starve and leans out. which casues it to go bang... but this general happens as the car is coming up to the 100k mark & has had a hard previous life.

Cameron,

Surely if it's starved of air, then it'll run rich.

I've never heard of this problem on the RB25DET, certainly on the RB26 the end cylinder (Nº6) gets more air than the others, leading to this being the first cylinder to fail due to det. On the RB25 the plenum feeds over the top of Nº's 3&4 which would suggest that these two would be susceptible to det more so than the others.

Got any more info on this, on the RB25DET ?

Hi Rev, been a while :)

Guilty,

The stock IC is good for 300bhp and 0.9bar, the stock turbo is only good for about .85bar and running beyond this will be risky.

The intresting thing is that increasing boost beyond .8bar on the stock IC / turbo will not result in an increase in peak power (low down torque will increase though) as the IC is saturated (can't cope with the volume of air) and the turbo is operating out of it's efficiency zone resulting in a rather hot intake charge and subsequently more of that nasty det at high rpm.

This is from experience gained on a dyno, using all sorts of measurements and dataloging everything as we went, Intake Air temp, Turbo outlet temp, IC outlet temp, etc. etc.

Keep the stock cooler unless you intend to fit a bigger turbo ;)

The RB25 has a fault with the intake manifold...........
Consider we have proof x2 i meant that it starved of fuel... to much air thats what happens when you run too much boost because the standard fuel pump injectors carnt keep up....

i'll post some pics

That's not an intake manifold problem Cameron, that's fueling and not relevant to the boost levels we're suggesting here.

The stock 370cc injectors can cope well and easy with .95bar, with the right regulator, pump and mapping. :)

i know it may be different to with his car but we ran 12 psi throught an avc-r and melted piston number 6 as you'll see in these next pics their are 2 different Rb25's here. the reason i said run lower boost is because an avc-r runs propper boost really hard unlike a bleed valve which doesn't hold it as good... about the fault its not really a really common one but its the design of it thats why with the Rb26 they change to the plenum style intake.

The first 2 pics, that R33 gtst RB25 we found out that i had a R34 gtt turbo which has a plastic front wheel an it had a steel exhaust wheel. being plastic it sucks a lot harder which causes bigger air flow. thats part of the reason piston number 6 melted. and the last 3 photos that R33 rb25det had a highflow standard turbo which was able to flow more air which caused piston number 6 to go bang due to running too much boost... (both these have avc-r's)

Ooooh, Ugly :throwup:

Yep, Nº6 killed by det. Still not convinced of the plenum being to blame though.

I recall of some discussion (about the RB26) along the lines of Nº6 failing becasue it is the warmest, with little (no) cooling airflow actually managing to reach it all the way back in the bay against the firewall.

Did them engines in the pics die on the dyno or on the road ?

cameron,

That pistons ringlands are rooted thanks to poor tuning not 12psi of boost (you can see the marks caused by pinging). I've run 12psi and 150hp shot of nitrous on a standard Rb25det and all my pistons ringlands were 'as new' when I pulled it down.And the bleeder valve held 12psi no problems.

Road... soon as it melted it start running like hairy goat burr bup blup burr.... couldnt bring it on boost had to stay under 2500rpm...

it leans out and gets to hot... its the design of the plenum because of the way it seperates the air from the throttle body unlike a greddy plenum were it has seperate butterflys for each cylinder.... simpily number 6 runs the hottest as you said and because its at the back it doesnt really start working intill high up in the Rpm rang which is when its really hot... the standard plenum is not the full blame but is part of the problem... as well as detination/leaning out.. not anough fuel etc:

poor tuning ? with the standard ecu ?

put it this way, the rb25 in the frist 2 pics we had that car dynoed and at 12psi it was 12:1 -14:1 a/f ratios but at 14psi it was 30:1 leaning out big time. that was on bleede valve and then we just hooked up the avc-r and took it for a strap and it was running 11 - 12psi exact boost on boost guage and the avc-r. when we had the bleede valve hooked up full boost was at 5000rpm an when we put the avc-r in it was full boost at 3000 all way to redline. which caused it to over heat etc...

cameron,

That pistons ringlands are rooted thanks to poor tuning not 12psi of boost (you can see the marks caused by pinging). I've run 12psi and 150hp shot of nitrous on a standard Rb25det and all my pistons ringlands were 'as new' when I pulled it down.And the bleeder valve held 12psi no problems.

The nos would of cooled the engine down heaps which would have stoped it from getting to hot... an melting pistons etc:

also the photos were its broken the rings my brother brought that car with it like that already and we didnt know intill it went bang.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...